LE ROCHEFORT

We went through this with Frame 2 here:
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/le-rochefort.3325/page-13#post-84618

Based on that,
You apply the same principle in regards to reading the template for frame #3 after studying plate 4 to figure out the orientation of your frames.
Here is a photo showing part of Plate 4.
As you can see, the longer top-timber is on the stem / bow side of the frame (#3) and face the longer top-timber of frame 2.

20200218_060049.jpg

Now, understanding the orientation of the frame template and reading the lines shown in it in preparation for frame construction:
Again........ There are 2 points you must never forget when looking at your individual frame templates:

1- for the forward frames (for example), you are looking at the template as if you were standing anywhere around the center of the ship with your body facing the stem / bow of the vessel.
For the aft frames, you would be standing and looking at the frames from the same spot, but with your body facing toward the stern.

2- on the frame template, the solid lines represent the edges of the timbers closest to you (the viewer). As a result, the dotted lines represent the hidden edges.

You must translate the drawing into a solid 3D view of the frame: either in your head or on paper. Again, for that you can use a couple copies of your frame and colour the 2 separate layers: something similar to what Gérard did in the post linked above. For that you can also look at what other people do such as here: https://5500.forumactif.org/t2509-le-rochefort-au-1-36-par-jmau-premier-pas-en-arsenal
(when you follow this link, if you scroll down the page far enough, you will actually see a breakdown of frame 3).

Here is a comparison photo showing the image of frame 2 provided by Gérard and a image showing the template of frame 3 from your plan. Take some time to study this and train yourself in visualizing the drawings (frame templates) in 3D: it will help you for other frames as well as a few other parts needed later on.

Untitled-1.jpg

Now, this may be obvious / logical, but maybe not, so here are the terms of reference I use when I layout my frame for construction or when I talk about it:
Layer one (1) is always the first layer to be laid down. As a result, for the forward frame (frames from mid-ship to stem), layer one is always the layer closest to the stem / bow. If I work on aft (frames from mid-ship to the stern), layer one is always be closest to the stern.
Layer two (2) is always closest to me (the viewer) and as a result is always the layer assembled on top of layer one (1).


Based on that and through the analysis of the photo above, you will note that the extended top-timber in frame 2 is closest to you or in other words is part of layer 2 when building the frame. After confirming the orientation of frame 3 as per Plate 4, the extended top-timber in frame 3 is located closest to the stem, so is part of layer 1.
_________________________________________________________________________

To build a ship, either from a kit or from scratch, the modeler must be methodical in his / her approach to the planing, the understanding as well as in the execution of the work. During the construction of a framed hull (and beyond), this methodical approach must be broken down to the level of each part needed to be shaped and assembled: from parts of a frame all the way to the finished product: a framed hull....

In short, it takes time to understand the drawings and construction should only begin after a minimum or basic understanding has been achieved.
Plan study takes time....... but it is time well spent......

G.
 

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AGAIN FANTASTIC, yes i understand this quite well, i only have some questions on the notches for frame 3, there are a lot of lines there i assume that the solid line is keel notch for layer 2, the dotted line for layer 1, the upper dotted line is the keelson notch, right now i am fairly happy with how my frames are comming out the joints are getting better and better, i may be leaving to much meat on the frames but it is allowing me to be able to work the frames better, in your opion should i wait til all the frames are done to start sanding some more or start when i have finished the forward frames. AGAIN THANKS Don
 
A) i only have some questions on the notches for frame 3, there are a lot of lines there i assume that the solid line is keel notch for layer 2, the dotted line for layer 1, the upper dotted line is the keelson notch,

B) in your opion should i wait til all the frames are done to start sanding some more or start when i have finished the forward frames. AGAIN THANKS Don

Hi Don,
A) You are pretty close.
A couple of close-up images to further explain.

From this image (from plate 3), you see that the edge of each layer is sitting at a different heights: and following the shape of the of the rising wood shown on Plate 2, you also know that the layers are fitted into areas of different widths. As you know, this explains the 2 different notches from one layer to the next on every frame.
Following the angled line of the rising wood in that area.

20200218_191525 copy.jpg

So in the end, frame # 3 template shows 4 different lines in relation to the 2 different notches at the foot of the frame.

20200218_191412 copy.jpg

If you do not want to angle the notch to follow exactly the line to match the 4 different lines, you can make the 2 notches flat (leveled) for each layer while respecting their width: basically the same way you did the previous frames. Again, it is up to you, no-one will ever know....... it will be your secret!

As for the keelson and the corresponding notches, check plate 2, part i2 and you should be able to figure it out.

Hope this helps.
G
 
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hi all laid off of making frames for a couple of days, back at it and some VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION HAS ARISEN, if pictures are to dark will retake them, this is frame No.3 complete both layers and sanded to a decentshape, the big question is this FRAME No.3 TOP TIMBER FINISHES AT 8.5 mm above shoter frame FRAME No.4 (BY THE FRAME PLAN IS 7.0 mm, clearly shown on the frame plan, BUT WHEN I GO TO PLAN SHEET 4 THE FRAMES No. 3and 4 finish at the same height and quite a bit difference in dimension, SO TO MY MENTOR GILLES WITCH DO I USE, AND THANKS20200222_060052.jpg20200222_060222.jpg20200222_060711.jpg20200222_065055.jpg20200222_065315.jpg
 
VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION HAS ARISEN, if pictures are to dark will retake them, this is frame No.3 complete both layers and sanded to a decentshape, the big question is this FRAME No.3 TOP TIMBER FINISHES AT 8.5 mm above shoter frame FRAME No.4 (BY THE FRAME PLAN IS 7.0 mm, clearly shown on the frame plan, BUT WHEN I GO TO PLAN SHEET 4 THE FRAMES No. 3and 4 finish at the same height and quite a bit difference in dimension, SO TO MY MENTOR GILLES WITCH DO I USE, AND THANKS

Hi Don,
Not sure why there is a difference in the height (could be because of the forecastle deck beams position seen on plate 1*) but I would not worry about it. Some modelers actually build the frames with both layers going right to the top and cut the required notch in the appropriate face of the frame at a later stage.
The extensions correspond to the timber-heads as seen on plate 13. The same kind of extensions / timber-heads are also present towards the stern frame 25/26 and 29/30.
These timber-heads will receive their final shape later.
Regards.
G.

* the deck does not follow the sheer rail.
 
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Hello Don, Great to see that you are making some very good progress with your ship. Do take your time now as so much depends on what and how you do things now. Nice to see Gilles helping you out over the rough areas.
Regards Lawrence
 
THANKS LAWERENCE, I COULD NOT DO THIS WITHOUT GILLES HELP, no matter what happens with this build I finally have learned how to do frames, all for future builds, fantastic, i have some worries down the road, top timbers very thin, worried that the will break off, and i will use spacers, and the dread of beveling, would like to do most of it off the jig doing the individual frames one at a time, but that is for a latter date. THANKS Don
 
THANKS LAWERENCE, I COULD NOT DO THIS WITHOUT GILLES HELP, no matter what happens with this build I finally have learned how to do frames, all for future builds, fantastic, i have some worries down the road, top timbers very thin, worried that the will break off, and i will use spacers, and the dread of beveling, would like to do most of it off the jig doing the individual frames one at a time, but that is for a latter date. THANKS Don
Hello Don, Yes it looks like Gilled is a great help to you, that is very nice of him. On your beveling do not go all the way to the line, but give your self a little of extra to work on. Just in case your frames are off a bit. This will give you a bit of lee way when beveling your finished framers. Just a little extra work but lots of extra insurance that your frames will line up.
Regards Lawrence
 
Sorry Don,
I hope it is alright with you as I am posting some of the content included in you last private message, but I do think these answers could be beneficial to others working on their first scratch build.

First:
as I am getting ready to order some ANCRE publications i would like your opinion on the BERNARD FROLICH book knowing my skills would this be a helpful book for me i really have not been able to use the self help books but with your judgement i would order this one.

The "Art of Ship Modeling by" Bernard Frolich is definitely a good book to have. I do not have this book anymore but it was one of the first book I purchased when I began my first serious scratch build from ANCRE monograph (Bonhomme Richard). It is not model specific but has much information. I also found a lot of motivation in it: as it helped me set "quality standards" for my work through the many images it contains.

Then there is this one:
You should also have the option of waiting for the English version of a new book published by Ancre: "Introduction to planked on frame model ship building" Author Adrian Sorolla. This is the title translated from Spanish but it could be slightly different when it actually comes out.
Due to the interest in this work, I suspect that it will not be too long before the English version is out.
The model used for this one is Le Rochefort, so I think you would find it beneficial: if only for the numerous photos it is supposed to contain but there should be a lot of informative text regarding the actual construction of a model ship.
I think Uwe or someone else mentioned this book here on SOS a few weeks ago, but I cannot find it. If you want I can post the link from somewhere else.

Now, 2 other books found to be most interesting and beneficial for the understanding of the structures of a FRENCH ship and much, much more: volume 1 and 2 of the 4-volume set the "74-gun ship" by Jean Boudriot. These books are filled with so much information that.......
They were the very first reference books I owned: books specific to French ship building. Later on, I added the other 2 volumes.
But that depends on later intentions: even if you do not intend in ever building another french ship, they remain excellent reading to further anyone's knowledge.

Second:
i would like to start on the stern construction or doing the transome or some other type of construction that you suggest, and i am going to take FRAME No. 15 and sand it down quite a bit leaving ample meat on both the EXTERIOR AND THE INTERIOR TO GET A FEEL FOR THE FINAL SANDING,

You can surely begin work on the stern framing parts or the stem. The only thing I would say is: do not go too far ahead as no major structure has been assembled yet. If you do go ahead with these parts, be conservative with shaping them.
If I were in your situation, I would rather spend time assembling the keel, stem and sternpost parts, fit and secure them into the building base/jig, then carefully dry-fit (no glue) the frames in place. This will give you a good idea as how everything fits together and you will be able to better judge problems you may encounter when sanding closer to frame contour lines. It is your first time, you have a lot of extra material left to take off on each frame and you are unsure as to how everything will fit together. So take it slow, check to make sure your frames line up on the keel as is. Then because it looks like you left 3 or 4 millimeters of extra material around your frames, you may bring that to a constant 2 mm then dry-fit again, then cut that down in half to a constant 1 mm around the contour of each frame and dry-fit again in the building jig.. You will see your hull take shape progressively which you will find motivating and satisfying.
Your final sanding will only take place once all the framing is done and assembled, including frames, hawse timbers and stern structure: the goal is to make sure you work progressively to attain the final shape of the hull: no bumps but more important, no hollowed out area.


Others may have other ideas, but you were asking and I am trying to put myself in your shoes.

Regards
G
 
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Sorry Don,
I hope it is alright with you as I am posting some of the content included in you last private message, but I do think these answers could be beneficial to others working on their first scratch build.

First:


The "Art of Ship Modeling by" Bernard Frolich is definitely a good book to have. I do not have this book anymore but it was one of the first book I purchased when I began my first serious scratch build from ANCRE monograph (Bonhomme Richard). It is not model specific but has much information. I also found a lot of motivation in it: as it helped me set "quality standards" for my work through the many images it contains.

Then there is this one:
You should also have the option of waiting for the English version of a new book published by Ancre: "Introduction to planked on frame model ship building" Author Adrian Sorolla. This is the title translated from Spanish but it could be slightly different when it actually comes out.
Due to the interest in this work, I suspect that it will not be too long before the English version is out.
The model used for this one is Le Rochefort, so I think you would find it beneficial: if only for the numerous photos it is supposed to contain but there should be a lot of informative text regarding the actual construction of a model ship.
I think Uwe or someone else mentioned this book here on SOS a few weeks ago, but I cannot find it. If you want I can post the link from somewhere else.

Now, 2 other books found to be most interesting and beneficial for the understanding of the structures of a ship and much, much more: volume 1 and 2 of the 4-volume set the "74-gun ship" by Jean Boudriot. These books are filled with so much information that.......
They were the very first reference books I owned: books specific to French ship building. Later on, I added the other 2 volumes.

Second:


You can surely begin work on the stern framing parts or the stem. The only thing I would say is: do not go too far ahead as no major structure has been assembled yet. If you do go ahead with these parts, be conservative with shaping them.
If I were in your situation, I would rather spend time assembling the keel, stem and sternpost parts, fit and secure them into the building base/jig, then carefully dry-fit (no glue) the frames in place. This will give you a good idea as how everything fits together and you will be able to better judge problems you may encounter when sanding closer to frame contour lines. It is your first time, you have a lot of extra material left to take off on each frame and you are unsure as to how everything will fit together. So take it slow, check to make sure your frames line up on the keel as is. Then because it looks like you left 3 or 4 millimeters of extra material around your frames, you may bring that to a constant 2 mm then dry-fit again, then cut that down in half to a constant 1 mm around the contour of each frame and dry-fit again. You will see your hull take shape progressively which you will find motivating and satisfying.
Your final sanding will only take place once all the framing is done and assembled, including frames, hawse timbers and stern structure: the goal is to make sure you work progressively to attain the final shape of the hull: no bumps but more important, no hollowed out area.
in the building jig.

Others may have other ideas, but you were asking and I am trying to put myself in your shoes.

Regards
G

Refering "First"
I make for everybody interested in the books Gilles mentioned, the different links to Book reviews here in SOS:

Die Kunst des Modellbaus

The Art of Ship Modeling

"Introduction to planked on frame model ship building" Author Adrian Sorolla

Jean Boudriot - 74 Gun Ship - Volume I

Jean Boudriot - 74 Gun Ship - Volume II
 
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THANK YOU AGAIN GILLES, I CERTAINLY DO NOT MIND YOUR POSTING ALL THE PMs AND IF IT HELPS OTHER PEOPLE THAT IS GREAT IT IS WHAT SOS IS ALL ABOUT, AND THANK YOU UWE FOR ALL THE GREAT BOOK REVIEWS THEY ARE A DELIGHT, WILL POST SOME PICTURES OF FRAME No. 15 that i sanded down still leaing some meat on it due to SLOPPY pattern making it is not consistent yet will do it latter when i start doing the rest, i now due the patterns with much more care, so all comments and critsims are welcome. THANKS Don
 
here are the pictures of frame No. 15, sanded down, as described above sloppy pattern making caused so problems here have already started to do the patterns much better, notice i have darkened with pencil the final shape, i will try WHAT GILLES suggested and and high lite them, as for the keel, stem stern axial construction it is complete hope it is done properly, i am ordering another slip/jig from the same co. ( hobby zone) it is a smaller version of the big one not as heavy it should make the fitting of frames easier to move around in my crowded hobby room, have to wait for the middel of march as they are out of stock right now, also you will see on my doing the keel,and inner keel i installed a piece on the bottom to raise it above the keel to sit better on the slip/ jig it will be removed.20200228_015407.jpg20200228_015459.jpg20200228_055426.jpg20200228_055535.jpg
 
here are the pictures of frame No. 15, sanded down, as described above sloppy pattern making caused so problems here have already started to do the patterns much better, notice i have darkened with pencil the final shape, as for the keel, stem stern axial construction it is complete hope it is done properly, i am ordering another slip/jig from the same co. ( hobby zone) it is a smaller version of the big one not as heavy it should make the fitting of frames easier to move around in my crowded hobby room, have to wait for the middel of march as they are out of stock right now, also you will see on my doing the keel,and inner keel i installed a piece on the bottom to raise it above the keel to sit better on the slip/ jig it will be removed.

Hi Don.
The frame looks much better...... seems you have come a long way.
Still have a lot of extra material to sand off (inside and out), but because you have squared the edges to a more constant / even shape, you will be better able to evaluate your work with the shape of the hull in general when you are ready for a dry-fit. When you square off the other frames, try to keep the same amount of extra material around all the frames. When you will be ready for your first dry-fit at least you will have a semi-even hull shape to look at and evaluate: as a result, just an over-sized thickness in the framing.
All it means is that you will have a lot of sanding to do later. At this point, this is a huge "security blanket". And as mentioned in the previous post, you could even do half of that sanding before final installation: but, again, wait for a first serious dry-fit in the jig.
Good work.
Regards
G
 
radom thoughts for a random mind, while waiting for materials, did a lot of cleanup in my hobby room especially dust, everywhere, i have some questions GILLES, i am doing a sample of the transom witch i want to do half and leave the other half open, as best i can determine the planking is 1/16 inch thick wonder if i could use a thin piece of basewood just shy of 1/16, then use planking, also showing the x1 etc do not understand this detail, and finally just want to make sure my FRAME Nos are correct if pictures are to dark let me know will re-do20200303_050157.jpg20200303_050448.jpg20200303_050740.jpg20200303_050740.jpg
 
ok more thoughts, as i was reviewing the frames made to date one thing stood out when i was cutting the patterns out totally sloppy just bad as if they did not matter OH YEH it does matter the frames with sloppy patterns are VERY HARD TO SAND DOWN EVENLY, the ones wit patterns that were applied with care are MUCH BETTER and a lot less work to sand down, MOTTO in SCRATCH BUILDING EVERY THING COUNTS NO SLOPPINESS ALLOWED, really in any type of build BOTH SCRATCH AND KIT. Don
 
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