Thanks UWE and NIGEL, will follow your advice, I can see now the frames are getting better and better, if i get bored with making the frames or start having problems I will shift to just cutting out parts not putting them on the model, have to do some work room adjustments to make more room for the building slip to dry fit the frames. Don PS can UWE or NIGEL tell me where on the plans can i find some thickness of parts, probally my fault but can not find them in another post i listed parts that i had to assume thickness dimensions are they correct. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP
LE ROCHEFORT
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haveing a problem with fram No.2 on the frame plans it shows the extended frame facing the bow on planset No.4 it shows it facing the stern if I am correct in reading the plans picturems attached, maybe UWE or Gerad can help me out here or anyone else that has the plans
I do not understand completely what you are asking? What do you mean with "extended frame" (I guess you mean the top timber which is a little bit longer than the other half of the double frame)? Is it the part marked with the red arrows, what you mean?
According the last photo, frame 1 is connected with the Hawse pieces and not frame 2 - but I have really now to study a little bit the drawing set
YES UWE THAT IS THE ONE I AM TALKING ABOUT. Don
slow progress on the frames but getting better, pictures showing FARAME No.12, it is the best to date having don 13 FRAMES, I will have some redoes to do, the pictures show the frame with the bow and stern views as good just a little tweking to do after dry fitting the frames onto the keel
the frames will get better when my new toy arrieves (DISK SANDER) so I will not do any more frames until it comes in, will do other items for a while, AS ALWAYS ALL COMENTS AND CRITISESMS ARE WELCOME THE ONLY WAY TO LEARN
THANK YOU MIKE MORE POSTS TOMORROW, WITH QUESTIONS AGAIN. THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP GUYS Don
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The frames looks goed. I think you get the flow, which is necessary to build such a model.
One suggstion: give a little bit timber on each side to have some wood for normally inaccuracies.
One suggstion: give a little bit timber on each side to have some wood for normally inaccuracies.
THANK YOU CHRISTIAN, As i needed to have a starting point, i cut the outboard side almost exact and left a little meat on the inboard side for dry fitting, any other sugestions would be gladly accepted. THANKS ALL. Don
more pictures and more questions, working on some stern pieces taking a break from the frames until my new MAN TOY GETS HERE ( DISK SANDER),I am having a hard time figuring out the plans showing part 8 from the side do not understand what is happenig there, help needed it is the plan marked B
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Don,
you glued the paper in the wrong direction on the timber sheet. So your part will be very fragible. You have to rotate it by 90 degrees.
you glued the paper in the wrong direction on the timber sheet. So your part will be very fragible. You have to rotate it by 90 degrees.
THANK YOU CHRISTIAN. Don
Yes! the grain should go over the longest length of the element - like the original shipwrights would have done it
THANKS GUYS DID IT THE RIGHT WAY, BTW UWE DID YOU GET A CHANCE TO CHECK FRAME No.2 AS TO WITCH PLAN TO USE. THANKS LOADS Don
Sorry, not until now - I will need the holidays to do so - I was very busy during the last days
NOT A PROBLEM UWE, THANKS LOADS. Don
THANKS MIKE. Don