Deck boards (prepping)
Ok, I won't keep you in suspense any longer.
The deck boards are going to take a lot of work because, after all, they are one of the most visible parts on the model. I'll outline here what my
plans are and then keep everyone updated on the progress as it happens. Of course, to quote Robby Burns, "The best laid plans of mice and men ..."
The first thing I did was take the cradle pieces that Pavel provided and made my own work stand. He has you attach them to the building jig, but that requires that you make the keel slots in the jig wider and also elevates the model to an uncomfortable working height. I lined the edges with packing foam to protect the hull and designed it so that I could clamp it in my PanaVise to tilt it for easier access. I also cut notches in the underside for rubber bands to hold the model securely when necessary.
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On to the deck boards...
The majority of the provided deck boards are exactly the same size and shape. This becomes important in a moment. The first step will be to mark the faces of those that are different with the identification numbers from the "sprue" (for lack of a better term). I'm marking the faces because I will install them all face down. Pavel has laser-engraved the treenails in all the boards. On the Oseberg, 16mm treenails were used to fasten the boards down. This equates to 0.64mm in scale. The outside of the laser-engraved simulated treenail ring is about 1.6mm, the inside about 1mm. It's just not right.
Using the markings as a guide (while everything is still in the "sprue"), I'll drill 0.8mm holes, staying on the inside (towards the center of the plank) of the markings. This is because the original boards have the same double bead profile along the edges as the strakes do. I plan to put this profile along the long edges of each board and I want to miss the treenails. I'm not going to profile the short grain edges because I fear it will tear out too much. I could drill 0.6 holes, but I want all this work to at least be visible!
I bought a new toy (don't tell the Admiral) for drilling all these holes - the Arrowmax micro drill press.
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I was going to do a full write-up on it, but found several on SOS already, so decided not to. There are mixed reviews - some, like
@Corsair love it, others not so much. I'll let you know how it works. I like the fact that the drill motor is cordless and comes off the frame to be used as a handpiece. This will come in handy if I decide to rivet the strakes (you know I will
). I don't like the fact that there is no depth stop and that the bit is not centered in the clearance hole - in fact, it just hits the edge of it. I can easily see some broken bits if I'm not careful. Yeah, I'll probably come up with some sort of depth stop.
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After drilling, I'll flip the sheets and sand the whole back face (now the upper, visible) face to remove laser char and get ready for staining. I like the look Of Pavel's model where the boards are dark around the edges, as though the centers were worn away by feet. So I'll spray black dye along the ends of the boards, it will be easier while they are still in the "sprues". Then, glue in a million toothpicks, cut and sand them flush. Then, I think, a coat of golden oak over the whole thing and then the walnut to fade the black in from the ends to the lighter center.
Now I can remove the pieces from the "sprues". The next step will be to put the profiles on the edges with the scratch stock I made. Then sand a slight round-over on all the edges and lightly spray walnut along the entire long edge. I may make a u-shaped mask to hold over them that will cover the treenails so I don't darken them too much with this color. I don't know - we'll see how the tests turn out.
Finally, all the pieces that are identical will be placed in a container, mixed up and pulled at random for assembly. One thing that I really don't like on some models are these one-piece, laser engraved decks. All the simulated joints and caulk lines in the world will never hide that natural dark streak in the wood that traverses diagonally across the entirety of your deck. I want my deck boards to be randomized, just as they were in the real thing.
Well, that's my plan and I'm sticking to it ... probably ... maybe ... we'll see.
Although, to be honest, if the inside of the planking were to be visible in the end, I'm not really sure how I would have attacked it. It's easiest if you get the glue while it is still rubbery, but that would require removing the model from the jig before the plank(s) had completely dried. You don't notice how bad it looks until it is magnified with these full-screen photos. 
More to come...
