POF La Palme (L'Amarante) Corvette 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph) by Tobias

Great work Tobias.Is that Twelve Apostles in the background of one of your pictures?

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks Tobias,I was way off, but it was out of focusROTF

Very nice model, and can't believe you are into building your first framed model already.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks Tobias,I was way off, but it was out of focusROTF

Very nice model, and can't believe you are into building your first framed model already.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Hi Nigel, I'm trying whether it will work is still in the stars but I think so because my ambition drives me.
 
Hello folks, well in the last 1 1/2 weeks I couldn't do anything because a gastrointestinal flu completely logged me out. Here you can see my attempt to build the first frames, well it is more difficult than it looks because I had to realize that the frames tend to warp when gluing and the double frames then no longer fit exactly on top of each other. Let's see how I can improve this technique of gluing. Maybe someone has a tip. Today I will first rebuild the upper part of the shipyard (waterline no. 9). Have a nice sunny weekend everyone, spring is just around the corner.

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Se you
Hallo Tobias,
does I interpret your description and photos correct ?
You are making the half frame "a" and the second half "b" separatly and afterwards you glue them together? And when you try to puit the two halfs together you realize, that one or both are partly warped....

If yes, please try the following:
1) I can see, that you place the parts of a frame on top of a glas, I guess for a plan surface - correct
but more important would be, that you put a glas on top of the frame after putting the parts together - with this the glue can harden and your parts are secured for any movements
2) I would glue the part of "a" and "b" together step by step and when the double frame is finished, put the glas on top and maybe with some wheights

the following photos are from my Salamandre, my first POF kit I have build (partly) but show more or less, how I do it usually

first the brickwork
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and at the end on top the glass with some weights - they stay flat without warping - you have a better control that both half are also more accurate together
when you make the frame halfs separately there could be already 0,2mm difference or even more in the width of the frame halfs which you realize latest, when you put the half frames together

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Hello Uwe, thank you very much for your information, very helpful. Yes, you see that relatively correctly, but the problem is not with the glass plate. If you look at my picture again you will see that I put it between two glass plates as you describe. I localized two mistakes:

My first mistake is more in my head, i.e. a mistake in thinking, because when sanding the glued pair of braces, I only have to concentrate on one side of the glued paper because they are "the same".

The second and also the crucial mistake is more because it is very difficult to sand down the cut as you cut it (paper template). The difference to the kit is that you have to copy your individual frames from the mono and then make the individual separating cuts. If it is missing here by one or two tenths, then you have 1-2 mm on each side at the top (distortion).

Conclusion: Work much more precisely, use much better glue -> Don't use a glue stick, but the one recommended by Oliver, your additional tip: put weights on the glass plate and the time factor in peace and patience. Yes, in the end it is all a learning process and your great support.

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Hello Uwe, thank you very much for your information, very helpful. Yes, you see that relatively correctly, but the problem is not with the glass plate. If you look at my picture again you will see that I put it between two glass plates as you describe. I localized two mistakes:

My first mistake is more in my head, i.e. a mistake in thinking, because when sanding the glued pair of braces, I only have to concentrate on one side of the glued paper because they are "the same".

The second and also the crucial mistake is more because it is very difficult to sand down the cut as you cut it (paper template). The difference to the kit is that you have to copy your individual frames from the mono and then make the individual separating cuts. If it is missing here by one or two tenths, then you have 1-2 mm on each side at the top (distortion).

Conclusion: Work much more precisely, use much better glue -> Don't use a glue stick, but the one recommended by Oliver, your additional tip: put weights on the glass plate and the time factor in peace and patience. Yes, in the end it is all a learning process and your great support.

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I experienced the same problem with my build - the slightest change in angle where futtocks meet will throw the whole frame out of whack. If I had enough money, I would have built frames Harold Hahn way - devours wood, but you'll get as close to a "perfect" frame.
 
Hi Tobias

I find that leaving one end of the Futtock long and sanding the end to match the previous Futtock when final fitting works best.Sanding both ends to the paper template beforehand can lead to issues.I use next to no pressure against the disc sander and trial fit multiple times to avoid gaps.

Working to oversize paper templates can also cause issues as you loose the line when the paper starts to fur.You can either cut the template exact size with scissors beforehand or stroke the edge of the corner with fine abrasive from paper side downwards whilst you are sanding the part.This removes the build up of paper "fur" and you can clearly see the line.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Conclusion: Work much more precisely, use much better glue -> Don't use a glue stick, but the one recommended by Oliver,

For glue of paper against wood I have very good experience with Marabu - FixoGum

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This rubber cement is fixing the paper - you can cut your frame elements out and afterwards you can easily peal the paper and glue away - no sanding is necessary to get rid of the paper
You will love it and never use anything else
 
For glue of paper against wood I have very good experience with Marabu - FixoGum

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This rubber cement is fixing the paper - you can cut your frame elements out and afterwards you can easily peal the paper and glue away - no sanding is necessary to get rid of the paper
You will love it and never use anything else

Hallo Tobias, I absolutely agree with Uwe, I use the same technique and am very satisfied.
 
For glue of paper against wood I have very good experience with Marabu - FixoGum

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This rubber cement is fixing the paper - you can cut your frame elements out and afterwards you can easily peal the paper and glue away - no sanding is necessary to get rid of the paper
You will love it and never use anything else
Hallo Tobias, I absolutely agree with Uwe, I use the same technique and am very satisfied.
Uwe and Adi that's exactly the glue, Fixo Gum I've been using since Saturday and I'm also very satisfied.
 
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