Great work Tobias.Is that Twelve Apostles in the background of one of your pictures?
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
POF La Palme (L'Amarante) Corvette 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph) by Tobias
Nigel which picture do you mean
Tobias
The very last picture you posted showing the three frames with the model in the background out of focus, black and white hull
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hello Nigel this is my first model that I built last year from January to June. It's the Essex whalers
Thanks Tobias,I was way off, but it was out of focus
Very nice model, and can't believe you are into building your first framed model already.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Very nice model, and can't believe you are into building your first framed model already.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hi Nigel, I'm trying whether it will work is still in the stars but I think so because my ambition drives me.Thanks Tobias,I was way off, but it was out of focus
Very nice model, and can't believe you are into building your first framed model already.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hallo Tobias,
does I interpret your description and photos correct ?
You are making the half frame "a" and the second half "b" separatly and afterwards you glue them together? And when you try to puit the two halfs together you realize, that one or both are partly warped....
If yes, please try the following:
1) I can see, that you place the parts of a frame on top of a glas, I guess for a plan surface - correct
but more important would be, that you put a glas on top of the frame after putting the parts together - with this the glue can harden and your parts are secured for any movements
2) I would glue the part of "a" and "b" together step by step and when the double frame is finished, put the glas on top and maybe with some wheights
the following photos are from my Salamandre, my first POF kit I have build (partly) but show more or less, how I do it usually
first the brickwork
and at the end on top the glass with some weights - they stay flat without warping - you have a better control that both half are also more accurate together
when you make the frame halfs separately there could be already 0,2mm difference or even more in the width of the frame halfs which you realize latest, when you put the half frames together
LA SALAMANDRE, bomb ketch - POF - (CAF-models, 1/48)
Due to the fact, that I am waiting for the spar jig, which will be hopefully send by Max in short time, I started with some frame work. As I mentioned before the Salamandre is the first laser cut POF model, so I have to get used to the small but important specialities of this kind of wood /...
shipsofscale.com
Hello Uwe, thank you very much for your information, very helpful. Yes, you see that relatively correctly, but the problem is not with the glass plate. If you look at my picture again you will see that I put it between two glass plates as you describe. I localized two mistakes:
My first mistake is more in my head, i.e. a mistake in thinking, because when sanding the glued pair of braces, I only have to concentrate on one side of the glued paper because they are "the same".
The second and also the crucial mistake is more because it is very difficult to sand down the cut as you cut it (paper template). The difference to the kit is that you have to copy your individual frames from the mono and then make the individual separating cuts. If it is missing here by one or two tenths, then you have 1-2 mm on each side at the top (distortion).
Conclusion: Work much more precisely, use much better glue -> Don't use a glue stick, but the one recommended by Oliver, your additional tip: put weights on the glass plate and the time factor in peace and patience. Yes, in the end it is all a learning process and your great support.
My first mistake is more in my head, i.e. a mistake in thinking, because when sanding the glued pair of braces, I only have to concentrate on one side of the glued paper because they are "the same".
The second and also the crucial mistake is more because it is very difficult to sand down the cut as you cut it (paper template). The difference to the kit is that you have to copy your individual frames from the mono and then make the individual separating cuts. If it is missing here by one or two tenths, then you have 1-2 mm on each side at the top (distortion).
Conclusion: Work much more precisely, use much better glue -> Don't use a glue stick, but the one recommended by Oliver, your additional tip: put weights on the glass plate and the time factor in peace and patience. Yes, in the end it is all a learning process and your great support.
I experienced the same problem with my build - the slightest change in angle where futtocks meet will throw the whole frame out of whack. If I had enough money, I would have built frames Harold Hahn way - devours wood, but you'll get as close to a "perfect" frame.
Oh yes Gennaro, I agree with you completely, the waste is very high, but a great result.
Hi Tobias
I find that leaving one end of the Futtock long and sanding the end to match the previous Futtock when final fitting works best.Sanding both ends to the paper template beforehand can lead to issues.I use next to no pressure against the disc sander and trial fit multiple times to avoid gaps.
Working to oversize paper templates can also cause issues as you loose the line when the paper starts to fur.You can either cut the template exact size with scissors beforehand or stroke the edge of the corner with fine abrasive from paper side downwards whilst you are sanding the part.This removes the build up of paper "fur" and you can clearly see the line.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I find that leaving one end of the Futtock long and sanding the end to match the previous Futtock when final fitting works best.Sanding both ends to the paper template beforehand can lead to issues.I use next to no pressure against the disc sander and trial fit multiple times to avoid gaps.
Working to oversize paper templates can also cause issues as you loose the line when the paper starts to fur.You can either cut the template exact size with scissors beforehand or stroke the edge of the corner with fine abrasive from paper side downwards whilst you are sanding the part.This removes the build up of paper "fur" and you can clearly see the line.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Hi Nigel, thank you for all the tips, I use the disc sander like you said very little pressure because otherwise the wood will burn. I will continue practicing tomorrow. 
For glue of paper against wood I have very good experience with Marabu - FixoGum
This rubber cement is fixing the paper - you can cut your frame elements out and afterwards you can easily peal the paper and glue away - no sanding is necessary to get rid of the paper
You will love it and never use anything else
Hallo Tobias, I absolutely agree with Uwe, I use the same technique and am very satisfied.
Uwe and Adi that's exactly the glue, Fixo Gum I've been using since Saturday and I'm also very satisfied.
Hello friends, thank you for your interest, your tips, comments and likes. I was able to practice a bit and now I've got the hang of it. I have now prepared a scrap frame to see how it works -> the color of the wood is really great I have to say.
The frames colour is extremely good 
How did you treat the wood?
oiled? or Clue Schliefgrund? or?
How did you treat the wood?
oiled? or Clue Schliefgrund? or?
Hi Uwe, In this case I treated the wood with tung oil.
step by step - frame by frame
it is long way to tipperary ..... “Remember, it’s the pen that’s bad, Don’t lay the blame on me!”
it is long way to tipperary ..... “Remember, it’s the pen that’s bad, Don’t lay the blame on me!”