Soleil Royal- Re-engineering Artesania Latina's New Kit by NMBROOK

In case some may not be familiar with Dimitry's absolutely beyond stunning work - here is a quick link -

 
Very interesting. Thanks for the explanation. My curious mind needs to know more. I'll go search Shipyard on the table for more.

Cheers!
 
Very interesting. Thanks for the explanation. My curious mind needs to know more. I'll go search Shipyard on the table for more.

Cheers!
This's his build log for gallery above your post
 
On page 23 there's the best quality gallery for this ship.

There's also video galery with music

In Championship Russia 2016
 
As I continue to focus on it, the more I’m struck by what seems so correct about the underwater hull; the sharpness of entry at the stem, but then the fullness at mid-ships. I really think your lengthening approach is born out by these results. It’s a stark contrast to the stock kit.
 
Yes Marc, I really am surprised myself how it all seemed to fall in place with the hull profile.Yes I had to add filler to a couple of flat spots, but other than that it just worked.

I have discovered another issue,I have started to assemble the stern gallery castings and mock up the photoetch to double check my deck levels.The width of the photo etch is wider than the hull at the second balcony up ( by more than the final planking ) despite me being exact when reducing the transom width.Nothing I can't sort but a little set back.I am going to have to mock it all up to see best course of action as everything goes together like a jigsaw.I will focus on this later as main job at the moment is the lower gun deck.
 
I have cut the remaining pockets for the deck beams.Now I have reached a point of indecision regarding the decks.I have already decided to plank these without ply sub decks and also given the fact boxwood is double the price it was 12 months ago, the decks will be planked in maple with the binding strakes in boxwood.

This will provide some subtle colour contrast.Now the biggy,I can't decide whether to leave the central 2/3 of the decks unplanked.If I do then I may have to represent Carlings which will mean another set of holes in the hull in-between those I have just cut.

In the meantime I have increased the hull thickness inside on the port side on the lower deck, starboard side still to do.So yes I will be detailing the spiriting/ceiling planking inside the hull.I have also added the socket for the mizzen, all mast positions were taken from Anderson's book.This puts the mizzen almost halfway between Taffrail and Mainmast which does reflect the artwork of Royal Louis of the same time period.

Kind Regards

Nigel

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I guess I just wonder whether all the extra work for deck structure, on the middle gun deck is worth it. Are you planning to have the main deck hatches open?

If so, perhaps you need only concern yourself with carlings and ledges on the middle deck waist of the hull, rather than go full-bore on something that will largely remain unseen.
 
Beautiful lines of both outer hull and deck beams. I am following your build log with ever growing interest.

Prices of boxwood may be high, but over here in a specialized woodstore (also selling more exotic wood like ebony) not even for sale. Instead of boxwood I have chosen for that reason for castello wood. Not the same, but close enough.
 
I guess I just wonder whether all the extra work for deck structure, on the middle gun deck is worth it. Are you planning to have the main deck hatches open?

If so, perhaps you need only concern yourself with carlings and ledges on the middle deck waist of the hull, rather than go full-bore on something that will largely remain unseen.

Marc I am thinking lower deck fully planked then all other decks only planked down the two outside edges apart from the cabins at the stern.The Carling design on this period of French ships means I really have to do it all or nothing.The Carlings span from hull to hatchway or ships centreline.
 
Beautiful lines of both outer hull and deck beams. I am following your build log with ever growing interest.

Prices of boxwood may be high, but over here in a specialized woodstore (also selling more exotic wood like ebony) not even for sale. Instead of boxwood I have chosen for that reason for castello wood. Not the same, but close enough.

Thanks Herman

Yes my regular supplier I have used for 15 years is struggling to get decent quality boxwood.I used to get Boxwood "strings" which are in essence boxwood strips in a variety of widths 0.7mm thick.These make nice planking but are currently unavailable in any width.
 
Hi Nigel, Looking very good. As we all do, I'm thinking of using the deck beams anchored into the shell for added strength, north of my first deck. I didn't plan on creating every beam under the first deck as they won't be visible and a widened beam under each bulkhead (16 of them) would be sufficient, strength wise.

I see you've cut deck beams from hardwood for your first deck. I'm assuming they will not be visible, unlike the beams on your second deck where you notched the deck clamps. So my question to you is...did you feel you needed every deck beam for strength on your first deck? Is there a reason you used hard wood vs another wood? My questions are not critiques, but just an effort to build my own knowledge so I can make an informed decision on my own project, if I decided to follow this approach.

I would be very happy if my work reached your level of quality Nigel, truly!

Cheers!
 
Hi Nigel, Looking very good. As we all do, I'm thinking of using the deck beams anchored into the shell for added strength, north of my first deck. I didn't plan on creating every beam under the first deck as they won't be visible and a widened beam under each bulkhead (16 of them) would be sufficient, strength wise.

I see you've cut deck beams from hardwood for your first deck. I'm assuming they will not be visible, unlike the beams on your second deck where you notched the deck clamps. So my question to you is...did you feel you needed every deck beam for strength on your first deck? Is there a reason you used hard wood vs another wood? My questions are not critiques, but just an effort to build my own knowledge so I can make an informed decision on my own project, if I decided to follow this approach.

I would be very happy if my work reached your level of quality Nigel, truly!

Cheers!

Hi Ken, I am only planing on adding more structure IF I go for unplanking the middle section of each deck.There is more than enough strength in this structure.I used Boxwood for the beams not only because it left my options open if they are going to be visible, but also these things are solid and will not flex midspan when glued into the hull.Because these are sawn with the camber in, you need a close grain hardwood or you run the risk of the splitting, at least at these dimensions.
 
Okay, so all upper decks will be open, thus fully detailed interiors and structure. That is a tall order, but you know you want to do it. I’d sure like to watch you do that!

Not for certain yet, but my mind is heading in that direction, at least I don't have to detail the holdROTF
 
I had originally planned on leaving the lower deck flat and planking directly on the plywood.This would allow me to retain the four castings that surround the stern chase ports.

I was never quite happy with this shortcut so have added boxwood profiles to the plywood so I can plank directly on this and get the required deck camber.This will mean I will have to part scratchbuild the decor on the chase ports, but it is what it is.The camber is now important as I have decided to definitely go with areas of unplanked upper decks.

I have also split and reworked the stern so it will tie in with the kit decorations more accurately.The plywood is a temporary brace that will be removed after internal fit out once the hull is rigid.

Kind Regards

Nigel

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