YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

Peter Voogt said:
Thanxs Dean, for thinking along. I visualized the structures on the deck and adapted my plan to them. The stairs run from back to front and then lead to the cabin. There are also level differences visible in the drawings in The Saga, so with AL-FI in it, I think my plan will fit.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Yes, you will need another set of beams for the cabin deck. Looking forward to seeing it come to fruition! ;)
 
Peter Voogt said:
This drawing in The Saga is helping with my plan:
View attachment 246602
There will be an intermediate floor later. So storage underneath it.
I can line out that sub-floor, when the frames are planked on the inside.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
It looks like the far wall is at the end of the fish hold, which I assume would be at the end of the mid lower deck beams. You can use the deck sheet to help locate the walls, that will give you the perimeter of the cabin. I’m sure you have figured this out. Also the deck beams should line up and locate them. ;)
 
This is the first time in three days that I could access SOS. You have made great progress - the speculative investigations sure add to the suspense! :)
 
Dean62 said:
It looks like the far wall is at the end of the fish hold, which I assume would be at the end of the mid lower deck beams. You can use the deck sheet to help locate the walls, that will give you the perimeter of the cabin. I’m sure you have figured this out. Also the deck beams should line up and locate them. ;)
Click to expand...
Yep Dean, when I start with the deck beams, I can line up the inside walls. But hope I will get my wood for the inside hull planking soon.
Heinrich said:
This is the first time in three days that I could access SOS. You have made great progress - the speculative investigations sure add to the suspense! :)
Click to expand...
Thanxs Heinrich. Fortunately, there is that drawing to give some direction. Hopefully that fits in with the rest of my plans.
Regards, Peter
 
Before I can start customizing the deck beams, the most important thing now is to align the top of the bearing beam properly. Because they ensure that the deck beams are lying horizontally and have a nice course of the sheer in the deck.
As with the subfloor, I align it with the long toothpicks:
234 DeckB.jpg
In the bow it is very tricky, because there they are close to each other. Every fraction of a mm already gives an oblique position, as shown here.

After several times sanding, re-inserting and fitting, sanding etc, finally a satisfactory result:
235 DeckB.jpg
Still not easy to make a straight picture with the iPhone through the small opening at the back. ;)

With the overview:
236 DeckB.jpg

The next step is to prepare the clamps, shown in the drawing from the Saga (see post #372).
That was a while ago, but for a number of steps in the construction of the hull, I sometimes have to think a several steps ahead. And only later I can apply it.
I can, of course, omit that thinking ahead and only show it when the time has come. But I just want to show in this build-log how the whole process goes. (But I don't want to spoil everything either. ;))

The deck beams are locked between the clamps, lying on top the bearing beam.
This clamp comes just above the bearing beam and rests on the cams of the lower rear frame parts. So I included the flattening of the cams when aligning the bearing beams:
233 Clamp.jpg
Once I have the deck beams in place, I can flatten the clamp to the correct height. So that later the deck will lie flat over it again. Because of the chamfering of the deck beams towards the bow and stern, the height of the clamp is not the same over the entire length.

Time for scratch building of the clamps.
Regards, Peter
 
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Dean62 said:
I think Peter is having as much fun taking pictures of his ship, as he is building it! :p
Click to expand...
You are right, Dean. Photography is now also a hobby, which I have been able to apply professionally through my work. And in which, still in the analogue era, I was able to learn a lot about the technical aspects.
1 picture tells more than 100 words. Fortunately, otherwise it would be veeeeerrrrrryyyyyyy long posts.:D
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter Voogt said:
Before I can start customizing the deck beams, the most important thing now is to align the top of the bearing beam properly. Because they ensure that the deck beams are lying horizontally and have a nice course of the sheer in the deck.
As with the subfloor, I align it with the long toothpicks:
View attachment 247051
In the bow it is very tricky, because there they are close to each other. Every fraction of a mm already gives an oblique position, as shown here.

After several times sanding, re-inserting and fitting, sanding etc, finally a satisfactory result:
View attachment 247052
Still not easy to make a straight picture with the iPhone through the small opening at the back. ;)

With the overview:
View attachment 247053

The next step is to prepare the clamps, shown in the drawing from the Saga (see post #372).
That was a while ago, but for a number of steps in the construction of the hull, I sometimes have to think a several steps ahead. And only later I can apply it.
I can, of course, omit that thinking ahead and only show it when the time has come. But I just want to show in this build-log how the whole process goes. (But I don't want to spoil everything either. ;))

The deck beams are locked between the clamps, lying on top the bearing beam.
This clamp comes just above the bearing beam and rests on the cams of the lower rear frame parts. So I included the flattening of the cams when aligning the bearing beams:
View attachment 247054
Once I have the deck beams in place, I can flatten the clamp to the correct height. So that later the deck will lie flat over it again. Because of the chamfering of the deck beams towards the bow and stern, the height of the clamp is not the same over the entire length.

Time for scratch building of the clamps.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Dear friend
you are doing wonderful work, very accurate, the result is great Thumbsup :) Thumbsup
 
From some strips from my stock started with the clamps in the front low part.
Just like the rest dry-fit secured with some clamps:
237 Clamp.jpg

Looked up the deck beams in the kit. Unlike the lasered previous parts, these are CNC milled. Phoe, no laser carbon for a while! :)
238 DBeams.jpg

Because the deck beams need to be shortened and get the chamfer on the side of the clamp, I made a fitting lath from some other strips from my stock:
239 DBeams.jpg
And when I work further forward, I can always shorten it a bit and use it again.;)
Marked the center on the fitting lath and the deck beam, placed on top of each other and the sides marked out:
240 DBeams.jpg

Now I could start using my recently purchased Japanese Kataba saw.
Kataba.jpg
Length 225 mm / 8.86”, 0.4 mm / 0,0157 kerf, 21 tpi.
241
Then perhaps the question will be: "Why such a large saw for such small beams?"
The advantage of the length and width of the saw blade is that you can now clearly see both corners to be sawn and can make long strokes. And the teeth are 'on pull', in contrast to the usual saws that are 'on push'. That pushing would not work with the Japanese saw, because the blade is very flexible. (And perhaps I use it later for greater work)

The deck beams 1, 12, 18 and 26 just made:
242 DBeams.jpg
Also dry-fit and clamp between the 'clamps'.
A point to watch out for: deck beam 1 comes before frame 2! So if you have numbered the frames on the jig, a mistake is easily made. So just double numbered.
This is what it looks like from the outside:
243 DBeams.jpg
When the clamps are finally attached later, I fix them from the inside to the frames with nails.
I then fix the deck beams from the outside through the clamp with a nail.

Now I can fill the rest of the foredeck.
For now I don't have enough clamps for the 'clamps' on the aft deck. But I'm still busy with the foredeck and I hope that in the meantime my ordered wood will arrive.

Regards, Peter
 
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Dean62 said:
I realized you took out all of the lower crossbeams, as they were never installed permanently? Can’t you install them now?
Click to expand...
Hi Dean. They where dry-fit. I can't install them until I've planked the (portside) inside of the frames. Starting at the (sisters) keelson and then up to the bearing beams of the lower floors. Then I can install them and then the planking further to the bearing beams of the deck.
I am waiting for delivery of the wood for the planking. Perhaps I will go to order by another shop.
Regards, Peter
 
Peter Voogt said:
Hi Dean. They where dry-fit. I can't install them until I've planked the (portside) inside of the frames. Starting at the (sisters) keelson and then up to the bearing beams of the lower floors. Then I can install them and then the planking further to the bearing beams of the deck.
I am waiting for delivery of the wood for the planking. Perhaps I will go to order by another shop.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Ok, that makes sense, I didn’t realize you were planking from the keelson up. ;)
 
The advantage of keeping a log is that you think about the text and the photos and read your post again afterwards.
Then I realized that with the 4 made deck beams, it allows me to mark and update the height of the clamp over the entire length:
244 Clamps.jpg
So now with the almost a flat connection at the top:
245 Clamps.jpg
And attached to the frames with the nails.
When all the beams are installed, I make the final sanding.

In the meantime I found another shop on the internet that had some slats that I had been waiting for a while. Called for stock, ordered it and the next day I already had it at home.
So I could finally start with the inner wall ceiling of the hull.
In doing so, I proceeded from the directions on the drawing in The Saga, which stated:
"Ceiling, continued to 3" from sister keelsons." Converted to 1:72, that is about 12 mm / 0.47”.

Started with the first piece under the middle floor:
246 Floor.jpg
After installing the floor beams, I can do the rest upwards.

And the ceiling under the front floor:
247 Floor.jpg
Here I closed it up to the keelson because it was also used as storage.

Both parts of the ceiling:
248 Floor.jpg
The trim of the top center piece, will later joins the front piece. But first the floor beams and the floor, because then I know how to make the connection between floor and the ceiling.

Now first see which parts I have to give the 1st protective layer before I can finally attach the floor beams for the lower floors. And that I can no longer reach.

Regards, Peter
 
One reason why the ceiling does not extend to the keelson is the application of the ballast. It is known that the ballast on the original BN consisted of pieces of pig / cast iron.

For that ballast I use the saved heads of the nails that I also use for the nails.
The space between 3 frames on the inside and outside is taped with tape that does not leave any glue residue afterwards.
A bundle of nail heads mixed with glue and worked them into the spaces:
249 Balast.jpg
I use this glue. Thanks to @Jimsky Jim who advised it in his build-log. Wet it is white but dries transparent:
253 Lijm.jpg

After removing the tape, this appeared:
250 Balast.jpg
It lies nicely close to the frames:
251 Balast.jpg
There comes planks on the port side, but on the starboard side it remains in sight.

You will continue to see this inside, but between the floor beams:
252 Balast.jpg

Perhaps the question: "Why only 2x2 spaces filled?"
1: Almost 900 nail heads is quite a lot, but in such a heap there is not much left.
2: This model is built as an open-yard-model. The site manager wants to show the technique and methodology that is used during this construction. The ballast is thus indicative of how it will be applied later.

Regards, Peter
 
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