OH WOW, good thing I have a ICD. I think my heart almost stopped when I started reading and looking at what Peter is doing. He and Paul will be charing a statue in the town square. Their innovations are incredible,
Since you are cutting the ship in half, I am not sure how the deck beams will get in the way? You can build lower half upright, and upper half upside down to get under deck beams. But I am sure you know which path is best for you.
I guess my biggest concern is that the waterline is not parallel to the hull planking, or potentially other internal boards and structure that will be at the split. You can however make the transition from halves (where boards are at angles) and trim the edges flush with the parting line. More work than planking internally and externally first, and then cutting second...but doable.Arriving on the inside:
View attachment 249808
Fortunately everything parallel and straight .......... first relief ......
I came across some of the nails. Just used a thin sheet of an iron saw. And some nails came up on their own. They will be put back later.
Regards, Peter
Your "mold" is a very creative and sophisticated assembly that has a lot of insight and foresight provided in the design and execution as your manner of dealing with the waterline issues. This is a leap above what I have seen and certainly not thought of before. The principle can be applied to all types of models so you have served SoS and not only YQ BN. A great contribution! Rich (PT-2)A few members of the SoS knew about my plans. Inspired by the cut of @Maarten Maarten.
A BN as an “open waterline shipyard model”.
This means that the hull is cut at the waterline.
Here's what I mean:
View attachment 249795
With the advantage that you will also keep a view of all the work I now do on the inside of the hull.
I have already marked out the waterline on the hull. A matter of securing the hull in the stand and marking it all around.
I was planning to only post about this when everything was over.But I would like you to enjoy the excitement and tension that this brings.
So here are some pictures from the beginning and how I approached it.
Until recently I didn't know when I would do this. When the whole hull was ready, for nth solidity?
Decided to do it now. Because now I can still reach the inside to make adjustments if necessary.
First I made a mold in which I could align the model exactly on the waterline:
View attachment 249796
I had already attached the YQ jig to the top plate, to get a firmer surface.
I have now secured it with threaded ends on a sturdy bottom plate.
In between I attached 2 aluminum profiles. The advantage of these profiles is that they are straight and sturdy.
All with washers and wing nuts so I could level the hull to the waterline. Both in length and width.
Then I could screw up both profiles so that they came to the waterline at cutting thickness:
View attachment 249797
At the front the waterline starts just below the lowest point of the 5th frame.
And at the rear it also starts just below the 5th frame from the back:
View attachment 249798
All can be found on the drawings of YQ.
There are some lines on the hull above and below the waterline. I intended to fix the frames on the inside and/or outside with battens. But due to the different chamfering of the frames, it was almost impossible to get that batten neatly on the waterline and cutting the batten would result in different thicknesses. And I would have to expand the waterline again on the battens. A lot of work that did not ensure success. Decided to go straight to sawing.
When everything was checked for the 3rd time, the saw was set up:
View attachment 249799
I had bought the Japanese Kataba saw for this a while ago. With enough space to be able to make supported pulls. Because the teeth of a Japanese saw are "on pull".
Also double check the alignment of the saw:
View attachment 249800
And no turning back:
View attachment 249801
For the photo, I let the saw hang loosely. You can see the flexibility of the blade. When sawing, I let the blade be guided by the two profiles.
Through the first 3 frames:
View attachment 249802
Phoe phoe ..... exciting ……..
I'm still sawing through the frames and the keel. As soon as the saw is also visible on the inside, I'll come up with an update.
Regards, Peter
Haha, the space between the upper deck beams is smaller then my fingersSince you are cutting the ship in half, I am not sure how the deck beams will get in the way? You can build lower half upright, and upper half upside down to get under deck beams. But I am sure you know which path is best for you.
.
You are right. But I have done several measurements on different parts and over the full lengt of the hull.
Thanxs for the compliments, Rich. The plan doesn't come up all of a sudden. I also thought a lot about that, until suddenly eureca!
Haha, You can go to bed, Heinrich. Now it's time for me to relax too. It was exciting enough for today.
And Jan, you also thanks for the reply. I hope your heart is now calm again?
But I don't think I'm doing a lot of wrong things...
You’re missing my point, it wouldn’t matter if you planked the deck first. Once you cut the ship in half, you can get underneath the deck easily!Haha, the space between the upper deck beams is smaller then my fingers
Not having done any frames, and listening to the chatter about how fragile they are/were, it will be a suspenseful time too hear how they withstand the sawing action, even if slow and careful with a very sharp saw. Best of luck for success. Rich@Dean62 I agree 100% Dean. While he is off to listening to his music, we can sit in steam in anticipation - very inconsiderate of him !
