YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi Dean.
When you see this picture of the BN (and there are more), then all kind of wood is a liberty. Or I have to use all the char from the frames on the deck planks ..... ;)
View attachment 294090

And about the grey waterways .......... this is my guide:
View attachment 294091

And I don't see this as a problem at all. It gives me even more possibilities to make a nice realistic deck.
There comes no dark wood besides the grey waterways, that's for sure. The main problem is the grain. And it must be in balance with all parts and their colors on the deck.
My only gripe are the color combinations mentioned in the various sources. But that's text, without color photos. So a lot of AL-FI.
Regards, Peter
I am only pointing out that the deck boards were Pine. Pine is a light colored wood, unless they stained it. So my assumption is it should be a light colored wood, which will look equally good against the grey. But it is your ship...so you are the Captain! ;)
 
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This is a much better picture for reference...
1646179874462.png

Even though it is the BN2, this was most likely the stain they used on the pine. I believe they tried to replicate the original, but just implemented upgrades due to the times.
So was the stain an upgrade? Anyway, it looks like the grey was very dark, a charcoal grey.
Not having any original BN color pictures of the deck, you can only look at the BN2 for reference, and hope they were the same or similar.

1646180003429.png

I went for a similar look, but don't have as much red tint. And I chose a white waterway. ;)
In conclusion, no matter what you do, no one can say for certain if it is correct. :p
 
Keep in mind that this ship nowadays is in use as a pleasure vessel, and therefore has been upgraded to a much higher standard.
It used to be a workhorse, and therefore would not have a deck which was stained and polished up to high gloss. Most probably the deck was of a rather dull gray colour, like old wood will become gray. However - due to the black and white pictures of that time - this is difficult to see.
Decks of ships where often made of pine (or a similar wood), also because these types of wood will not become slippery when wet. And pine becomes gray when you just let it weather.

Hans
 
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Keep in mind that this ship nowadays is in use as a pleasure vessel, and therefore has been upgraded to a much higher standard.
It used to be a workhorse, and therefore would not have a deck which was stained and polished up to high gloss. Most probably the deck was of a rather dull gray colour, like old wood will become gray. However - due to the black and white pictures of that time - this is difficult to see.
Decks of ships where often made of pine (or a similar wood), also because these types of wood will not become slippery when wet. And pine becomes gray when you just let it weather.
Hans
You are right, Hans. No high polish deck.
 
Keep in mind that this ship nowadays is in use as a pleasure vessel, and therefore has been upgraded to a much higher standard.
It used to be a workhorse, and therefore would not have a deck which was stained and polished up to high gloss. Most probably the deck was of a rather dull gray colour, like old wood will become gray. However - due to the black and white pictures of that time - this is difficult to see.
Decks of ships where often made of pine (or a similar wood), also because these types of wood will not become slippery when wet. And pine becomes gray when you just let it weather.

Hans
Agreed, however we also have to consider it would have been sealed at the very least, whether or not it was polished. And it was most likely stained as well. And finally you have to decide if you want to show a weathered, more grey deck, or a new deck. If you go with weathered, then you are committed to weathering the rest of the ship, which I don't believe Peter has been doing.
Due to the aforementioned points, it still leads us to a pine deck, that is sealed, with a stain most likely added. I chose a matte finish on my clear. ;)
 
I have received the Beech from Hans (Kolderstok). Only the Ramin is delayed.
Find also a nice block of pine with a nice grain in my own stock. Sawn strips of it too.
Here the different types of wood side by side. The text speaks for itself:
657 DeckTest.jpg
Both shots with different light angle.
After Hans' comment that the wood on the deck turns gray over time, I colored some linseed oil with gray ink on the right block of Beech. It gives a little gray glow and the seams color a bit more.
Besides the fact that the pine is also very soft, I also find it too light.
I am very charmed by the gray beech, but I am open to your opinion. I'll test that a little further by polishing it a bit and adding another layer of gray oil.
But also wait and see how it looks in 1 or 2 days when the oil is well absorbed.
So, a BN with completely different color techniques.
Regards, Peter
 
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Agreed, however we also have to consider it would have been sealed at the very least, whether or not it was polished. And it was most likely stained as well. And finally you have to decide if you want to show a weathered, more grey deck, or a new deck. If you go with weathered, then you are committed to weathering the rest of the ship, which I don't believe Peter has been doing.
Due to the aforementioned points, it still leads us to a pine deck, that is sealed, with a stain most likely added. I chose a matte finish on my clear. ;)
Hi Dean. You posted just in front of me. Watering is not my kind of painting. Or this 'greying' must be.
 
I have received the Beech from Hans (Kolderstok). Only the Ramin is delayed.
Find also a nice block of pine with a nice grain in my own stock. Sawn strips of it too.
Here the different types of wood side by side. The text speaks for itself:
View attachment 294209
Both shots with different light angle.
After Hans' comment that the wood on the deck turns gray over time, I colored some linseed oil with gray ink on the right block of Beech. It gives a little gray glow and the seams color a bit more.
Besides the fact that the pine is also very soft, I also find it too light.
I am very charmed by the gray beech, but I am open to your opinion. I'll test that a little further by polishing it a bit and adding another layer of gray oil.
But also wait and see how it looks in 1 or 2 days when the oil is well absorbed.
So, a BN with completely different color techniques.
Regards, Peter
I don't care for the broken wood grain in beech, it looks like someone marked on it with a pen (because of random dark lines). But that is my personal opinion.
That said, so far I like the maple the best. However the wood grain in Ramin is very nice. So I would also like to see that when it comes in.
But at the end of the day, I am sure something will eventually catch your eye, and you will go with it. Best of luck, many choices! ;)
 
Since you're asking...
I'm leaning towards the red beech, not for historical accuracy reasons, but I think it's adding contrast to the white and grey waterways, the inside of the bulwarks and monkey rail, the other deck elements and the grey (anti-slip?) paint near the focsle.
Have fun!
 
Since you're asking...
I'm leaning towards the red beech, not for historical accuracy reasons, but I think it's adding contrast to the white and grey waterways, the inside of the bulwarks and monkey rail, the other deck elements and the grey (anti-slip?) paint near the focsle.
Have fun!
Johan, keep in mind, if you like the color of the red beech wood, you can use the lighter woods and stain them to that color. That way you can pick a wood based on its grain and not just the color. Then you can have the wood grain look you want and the color you want, best of both worlds...lol,;)
 
Hey, Peter. I like the pine, I would stain a bit (just a bit) to make it darker. However, Tung oil might darken the pine when penetrates...

But that's my taste, tough.
 
I have received the Beech from Hans (Kolderstok). Only the Ramin is delayed.
Find also a nice block of pine with a nice grain in my own stock. Sawn strips of it too.
Here the different types of wood side by side. The text speaks for itself:
Both shots with different light angle.
After Hans' comment that the wood on the deck turns gray over time, I colored some linseed oil with gray ink on the right block of Beech. It gives a little gray glow and the seams color a bit more.
Besides the fact that the pine is also very soft, I also find it too light.
I am very charmed by the gray beech, but I am open to your opinion. I'll test that a little further by polishing it a bit and adding another layer of gray oil.
But also wait and see how it looks in 1 or 2 days when the oil is well absorbed.
So, a BN with completely different color techniques.
Regards, Peter

Wow, decisions, decisions Peter. I hope you are able to sift through all the good opinions and advice and land the colour you want. I know I'd probably just go with gut feel, and if that doesn't work then I'd probably spin a coin. Or several coins in this case as you have several to choose from. Good luck Thumbsup
 
Hey, Peter. I like the pine, I would stain a bit (just a bit) to make it darker. However, Tung oil might darken the pine when penetrates...
But that's my taste, tough.
Thanxs for the input, Jim.
It's just that the maple and pine are too soft and fibrous on 2.5mm wide planks. That makes the connections and therefore appearance too coarse. Even though I have a very sharp saw blade. I don't like wider planks at this 1:72 scale.
Regards, Peter
 
Wow, decisions, decisions Peter. I hope you are able to sift through all the good opinions and advice and land the colour you want. I know I'd probably just go with gut feel, and if that doesn't work then I'd probably spin a coin. Or several coins in this case as you have several to choose from. Good luck Thumbsup
Thanxs Mark.
I'm going to run down some pros and cons. Something will come out that I like.
Regards, Peter
 
I estimate that if I wait another week, I will be offered another 15 types of wood as an option.
Just remember that I still have pear planks from the hull. Maybe not enough for the whole-half deck, but I still have the scrap planks from the pear trusses. Those are 2.6mm thick. I can saw planks from the sides of the sheets with the correct thickness and then saw them to 2.5mm. They are not of the necessary 12 cm-12 frames length, but I also need shorter pieces on different places.
I'm going to work that out. And a test with the grayed oil.

This is now on starboard:
583 Starboard 2022-01-19.jpg
Regards, Peter
 
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I estimate that if I wait another week, I will be offered another 15 types of wood as an option.
Just remember that I still have pear planks from the hull. Maybe not enough for the whole-half deck, but I still have the scrap planks from the pear trusses. That's 2.6mm thick. I can saw planks from the sides of the sheets with the correct thickness and then shorten them to 2.5mm. They are not of the necessary 12 cm-12 frames length, but I also need shorter pieces on different places.
I'm going to work that out. And a test with the grayed oil.

This is now on starboard:
View attachment 294325
Regards, Peter
The trick here might be to downselect just a couple of options, otherwise one could become stuck in a very lengthy test fase. A number of option should be rather easy to exclude, due to structure or color.
In the meantime, I wish you a lot of strength and wisdom in the choices you have to make... ;)
 
The trick here might be to downselect just a couple of options, otherwise one could become stuck in a very lengthy test fase. A number of option should be rather easy to exclude, due to structure or color.
In the meantime, I wish you a lot of strength and wisdom in the choices you have to make... ;)
Thanxs, Johan.
I have already put away some types of wood and have the feeling that other builders put more weight on my tests than I do myself.
I have plenty of time: what else should I do? Besides my skating, running, skiing, hiking, biking, going out with my Admiral etc etc.
Just keep looking until the eureka is there, like with the ink for the hull.
Regards, Peter
 
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