Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Peter, Great work as always, your masts sure do look good and so proud. One question, and that is where did you ever find silver coins this small, curious.?
Regards Lawrence
Regards Lawrence
YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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Hello Peter. The 'Pinkish' color is artificially made. I don't know what exactly the method they use, but naturally Pearwood is more cream ton. Take a look at the image below. The right example is 'vacuumed\steamed' pearwood, while the left is natural.
As far as I know pear is often steamed, to speed up the drying process, and to kill any insects which like the pearwood a bit to much.
There is one disadvantage in steamed pear (in my opinion) and that is that the color will turn into a piggy pink.
There is one disadvantage in steamed pear (in my opinion) and that is that the color will turn into a piggy pink.
Interesting. I thought maybe the pinkish tones came from the heartwood? Learn something new every day!
Looking great Peter. You are at the deck level now, a lot of interesting things ahead!
Here is the information…
So the heartwood is pink, but steaming deepens it.
I never noticed if steaming, to bend it, would change the color in the bend area?
So the heartwood is pink, but steaming deepens it.
I never noticed if steaming, to bend it, would change the color in the bend area?
What happens to your skin when you go into the sauna?Here is the information…
View attachment 295163
So the heartwood is pink, but steaming deepens it.
I never noticed if steaming, to bend it, would change the color in the bend area?
Now seriously: this is also for me complete new and very interesting.
For the deck I deal with the YQ-pear. Then the overall look will be ‘a bit redish’.
Hi Jan.
+
= more then words can tell.
On the side of the coins I wrote:
“Who can read this text has very good eyes.”
Regards, Peter
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I probably won't have to convince the others that I've done the necessary 'research', so for Frank @Frank48 :
The drawing on pag. 294, figure 36, of Howard I. Chapelle's "The American Fishing Schooners".
The blue lines are drawn perpendicular to the waterline, from the center of the top of the lower masts downwards.
The foremast is tilted back +/- 1 degree and the mainmast +/- 1.8 degrees. Measured through the center of both masts.
I draw all the lines in Photoshop with the digital signature of the drawn line.
The drawing on pag. 66 from L.B. Jenson's "Bluenose II, Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners", being his interpretation of the original Bluenose. (See the text below-left.)
He has not drawn the complete masts in this drawing.
I have continued the stumps with the red lines upwards.
The blue lines are perpendicular to the waterline and I let it run through the middle of the bottom of the masts upwards.
Here too I reach +/- 1 degree for the foremast and +/- 1.8 degree for the mainmast.
On pg. 33 he did make a transverse drawing of the stern with the main mast, but that is of the BN-II. There the main boom is placed 2 degree backwards.
With my comment:
All with the limitations of the artists, of course. But considering Chapelle's drawing, I am quite convinced of his drawing accuracy.
Regards, Peter
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Buon pomeriggio Pietro, grazie per avermi risposto ma, come ti ho detto ieri non ci siamo capiti per via dell'inglese/italiano, quello che hai postato è proprio quello che intendevo
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Obviously what you say is correct, Peter!
When the wind pushes, the masts must necessarily lean forward, especially in a tailwind, so the "counting" towards the stern is correct. Probably what Franco says was true at the time of galleons and previous ships.
When the wind pushes, the masts must necessarily lean forward, especially in a tailwind, so the "counting" towards the stern is correct. Probably what Franco says was true at the time of galleons and previous ships.
Sorry, Frank. No Italian for me anymore. And about the book: The BN is no Navy.
Hi Piero. Thanxs for the reply.
Marq De Villiers mentioned the leaning forwards by full wind in his Witch in the Wind.
Regards, Peter
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Even with the now attached mast stumps I was still able to remove the 'above the waterline part' in an upright movement.
Soon you may be able to see this through the mirror:
The masts will protrude through the deck in this way. They are glued into the chocks and also get their mast coats.
With a picture of the 'under the waterline part' with the glued mast stumps:
This is now ready (I think so). Maybe already make his final warf standard?
Anyway, start with planking the deck.
Regards, Peter
Soon you may be able to see this through the mirror:
The masts will protrude through the deck in this way. They are glued into the chocks and also get their mast coats.
With a picture of the 'under the waterline part' with the glued mast stumps:
This is now ready (I think so). Maybe already make his final warf standard?
Anyway, start with planking the deck.
Regards, Peter
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Brilliant!
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of course I know very well that it is not Navy, in the future I will avoid making comments in your yard, Excuse me
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Very good solution with the mast segments - very good solution
Thanxs, Uwe. It was a bit of a relief that the masts were in the right position almost immediately.
Regards, Peter
Thanxs, Heinrich. See what I wrote to Uwe.
Why build easy when you can do it difficult.
Regards, Peter