Busy assembling the frames 23 to 48, I had to have some distractions.
At the beginning of this build-log, I had already said that I would like to turn this report into a photo book later. To show interested parties how the construction went, without having internet at hand.
I had already posted a few photos of the first small frames, but they consisted of only 2 parts: the front and back combination of the floor, futtocks and top timber.
I had already made a photo compilation of the steps for making the bevels.
On the Dutch forum, there is not published about the build of the BN so many as on this forum. Therefore I made for the Dutch forum a picture compilation of the steps I made for each frame.
And show it also here, because …….. I build the frame a little bit different ……..
It is recommended to build the front and rear frames separately on the frame drawings. I deviated from that because then in 1st instance you glue only small areas together. I have built up the frames step by step from the floor parts, with part by part the futtocks and top timbers.
The first 9 steps:
View attachment 227534
1: Depending on the size of the frames to be made, composed of a front and a rear frame, the parts are in 1 or 2 shelves. The parts are lasered. The largest frames consist of 7 parts. In my post #103 I have already explained the making of the bevels with the laser lines.
2: The parts are marked at the back with a 'X', because these sides are glued together. If you glue the wrong side, you change the laser lines. The laser cut-out is not complete. The parts are still stuck in the shelf with bridges.
3: Sometimes you have to cut the bridges, but usually the particles are easy to express. All edges are charred from lasering. In the end, all that has to be done, along with the bridges.
4: First remove the bridges and char on the sides that are glued together. Otherwise, the glue won't held. I do that on top of my table vice and with a sweet file. So I'll work straight and right.
Because it may be known: the laser cuts at a small angle! And usually you have not succeeded in the two surfaces to be glued with corresponding sloping surfaces falling exactly against each other. So flatten everything at right angles.
5: All 7 parts processed and ready to assemble. All in all, 30 small or bigger sides filed.
6: First the front and back 'floor' pieces together. With a toothpick I make sure that a film of glue is put all over the surface. This is the 'floor' of the 'back frame'.
7: The ‘floor’ of the front frame consists of 2 parts. With a fitting block with the width of the keel in the appropriate recess, it’s placed, lightly pressed and ensured that the (later) upwards sides connect to each other.
8: Based on the excess glue that comes out between the parts, I can immediately see to connect the parts nicely together. Otherwise just loosen, clean, file and glue again.
9: If the fit is correct, then the parts on the drawing to check and clamp your correct shape.
The second 9 steps:
View attachment 227536
10: Because I can now easily maneuver under the keel, I use the ‘floor’ to file the corresponding recess in the keel to width.
11: Now I make the recess between the noses of the ‘floor’ at the right width so that later when placing the frame, with a little resistance, it will slide over the keel. On the SoS forum there are already several examples of broken struts. They are thin. And if they also do not slide nicely into the recesses in the jig, then it clamps and wrings above and below. Then file and sand gives much more stress. In your head and in your frames.
12: And because I am fitting now, also the corresponding recess in the keelson. And I'll make straights in the keelson. Because there too, the laser cuts are on a angle!.
It works much easier than later with the placement. Where it has to fit over all the Frames. Then find out which doesn't fit ……..
13: Now it is the turn of the two parts '1st futtock' of the rear frame, the 'belly pieces'. Gluing, fitting and clamping. They are here in the drawing with the 2 floor pieces on top of it. The clamps press the new joint through these pieces.
14: Once dry, turned over. With the continuous laser lines for the bevel, in accordance with the drawing.
15: Then the two parts 'top timber' of the front frames, the 'struts'.
Again bulging glue in the fitting. Remove with a wet rag and ....
16: Fit the drawing and clamp to dry. With the glue clamps on the pieces '1st futtock', which therefore press on this new connection.
17: Once dry, a frame ready to make the bevels.
18: Mark the frame with its number and on the others and on to the next one.
IMNO, so I build a solid frame step by step.
Regards, Peter
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