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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame

To be able to make the chainplates and place them in the right place, I decided to make the masts first.

Among the drawing files I received from the Vlaardingen Foundation was a drawing for all the masts and gaffs:
View attachment 569346
The mizzen mast has a square foot, 200 mm, that extends to around 660 mm all the way to the deck. But when making the stub, I had already shown this photo from the Amsterdam restoration book:
View attachment 569345
It clearly shows that the mast foot tapers from square to round with the same diameter.

I made the square feet for both masts on the cross table:
View attachment 569347
My Admiral enjoyed watching me concentrate:
View attachment 569348
Always checking if the foot would fit in the mast socket.

The square parts on 2/3 of the masts were also turned to the correct position and size:
View attachment 569349
The cushions for the shrouds will be placed there later.

The mizzen mast was turned to the correct size of 6.6 mm at deck height:
View attachment 569350
The bed of the Proxxon DB250 is too short for the masts. Here's the shorter mizzen mast. I ordered an extra bed from the Proxxon representative in the Netherlands for a reasonable price. It will arrive today or tomorrow.

I also made a support for the longer pieces:
View attachment 569351
I still had some pieces of plexiglass left over from the display cases I'd already made. I glued everything together with chloroform. And some spare bearings from my roller skates are now getting a second life.
Regards, Peter
Brilliant Exclamation-Mark
 
I have installer the 2nd bed. Here in it’s full length:
View attachment 569814
With all fittings and the shorter mizzen mast in place:
View attachment 569815
I can adjust the support along its entire length, ensuring it's supported wherever I need it. The €30 investment is more than worth it.
Regards, Peter
What an ingenious idea for lengthening that bed. What is the maximum workable length now?
 
What an ingenious idea for lengthening that bed. What is the maximum workable length now?
Hi Herman. If I slide the plate with the center to the most possible right side, the it’s 66 cm to the 3-claw. Then it depends on how much length you can feed through the 10 mm opening in the housing via the claw.
Regards, Peter
 
I have installer the 2nd bed. Here in it’s full length:
View attachment 569814
With all fittings and the shorter mizzen mast in place:
View attachment 569815
I can adjust the support along its entire length, ensuring it's supported wherever I need it. The €30 investment is more than worth it.
Regards, Peter
Great job. And I love your fleet of vehicles, I'd love to have one like that. :p
 
After many hours of lathing and sanding on the lathe, where I was a bit too enthusiastic on the first attempt at the mizzen mast, removing too much wood in one spot and having to start over, these two "magic wands" finally emerged:
0967 Masten.jpg
The main mast is 38.6 cm long, 8.6 mm at the foot, 6.9 mm at the square par, and 2 mm at the top.
The mizzen mast is 33.6 cm long, 6.6 mm at the foot, 5.5 mm at the square part, and 2 mm at the top.

First, everything was inserted into the port section. The main mast fits neatly into the mast tube and kossing:
0968 Masten.jpg
The lowered main mast now falls neatly alongside the mizzen mast, where it will soon be pulled against the shroud ropes:
0969 Masten.jpg
The inset shows the crossing photographed from a bit further forward.

Even with both parts together, everything fits:
0970 Masten.jpg
The hatch that closes the kossing when the mast is standing has been set aside.

Of course, it's also important that both masts are straight. In position of each other and in relation to the ship:
0971 Masten.jpg
That was a great relief.

With another photo showing her actual dimensions:
0972 Masten.jpg

I'm already busy with the inventory of the standing and running rigging. 60 blocks are being used. Now I can determine the length of all the lines so I can place the order for those as well.
Regards, Peter
 
Last edited:
After many hours of lathing and sanding on the lathe, where I was a bit too enthusiastic on the first attempt at the mizzen mast, removing too much wood in one spot and having to start over, these two "magic wands" finally emerged:
View attachment 569988
The main mast is 38.6 cm long, 8.6 mm at the foot, 6.9 mm at the square par, and 2 mm at the top.
The mizzen mast is 33.6 cm long, 6.6 mm at the foot, 5.5 mm at the square part, and 2 mm at the top.

First, everything was inserted into the port section. The main mast fits neatly into the mast tube and kossing:
View attachment 569989
The lowered main mast now falls neatly alongside the mizzen mast, where it will soon be pulled against the shroud ropes:
View attachment 569990
The inset shows the crossing photographed from a bit further forward.

Even with both parts together, everything fits:
View attachment 569991
The hatch that closes the kossing when the mast is standing has been set aside.

Of course, it's also important that both masts are straight. In position of each other and in relation to the ship:
View attachment 569992
That was a great relief.

With another photo showing her actual dimensions:
View attachment 569993

I'm already busy with the inventory of the standing and running rigging. 60 blocks are being used. Now I can determine the length of all the lines so I can place the order for those as well.
Regards, Peter
Nice job Peter, your geometry and scale calculations are spot on!
 
After many hours of lathing and sanding on the lathe, where I was a bit too enthusiastic on the first attempt at the mizzen mast, removing too much wood in one spot and having to start over, these two "magic wands" finally emerged:
View attachment 569988
The main mast is 38.6 cm long, 8.6 mm at the foot, 6.9 mm at the square par, and 2 mm at the top.
The mizzen mast is 33.6 cm long, 6.6 mm at the foot, 5.5 mm at the square part, and 2 mm at the top.

First, everything was inserted into the port section. The main mast fits neatly into the mast tube and kossing:
View attachment 569989
The lowered main mast now falls neatly alongside the mizzen mast, where it will soon be pulled against the shroud ropes:
View attachment 569990
The inset shows the crossing photographed from a bit further forward.

Even with both parts together, everything fits:
View attachment 569991
The hatch that closes the kossing when the mast is standing has been set aside.

Of course, it's also important that both masts are straight. In position of each other and in relation to the ship:
View attachment 569992
That was a great relief.

With another photo showing her actual dimensions:
View attachment 569993

I'm already busy with the inventory of the standing and running rigging. 60 blocks are being used. Now I can determine the length of all the lines so I can place the order for those as well.
Regards, Peter
Good morning Peter. Stunning. Harry Potter would be proud of those.... Cheers Grant
 
Bravo, Peter! An important accomplishment for the overall look of the model.
Thanks, Paul. I was very happy with this outcome of the overall looks.
I meant that you have cool machines for making masts and other things. This is all a translator. ROTF
Everything you do is really cool.
Translations and technical and nautical terms ……… always difficult.
Thanks for the ‘cool’ compliments, Sergey.
Nice job Peter, your geometry and scale calculations are spot on!
Thanks, Daniel. After a lot of measuring, fitting, measuring, fitting etc etc a theory and practice came (again) together. The sliding caliper has been working overtime.
It's looking really impressive, Peter.

Before you start with the rigging you should place the model on the final stand. This minimize the change to destroy parts of the rigging, while moving to the stand.
Thanks, Christian. I have plans to use the 2 wooden base plates where the 2 halves of the model are now standing. Both will come on another plate. But a rigging plan is ‘crawling’ in my head for some time …….
Good morning Peter. Stunning. Harry Potter would be proud of those.... Cheers Grant
Thanks, Grant. I'm waiting for Dobby to come around again…….. ROTF
Regards, Peter
 
After many hours of lathing and sanding on the lathe, where I was a bit too enthusiastic on the first attempt at the mizzen mast, removing too much wood in one spot and having to start over, these two "magic wands" finally emerged:
View attachment 569988
The main mast is 38.6 cm long, 8.6 mm at the foot, 6.9 mm at the square par, and 2 mm at the top.
The mizzen mast is 33.6 cm long, 6.6 mm at the foot, 5.5 mm at the square part, and 2 mm at the top.

First, everything was inserted into the port section. The main mast fits neatly into the mast tube and kossing:
View attachment 569989
The lowered main mast now falls neatly alongside the mizzen mast, where it will soon be pulled against the shroud ropes:
View attachment 569990
The inset shows the crossing photographed from a bit further forward.

Even with both parts together, everything fits:
View attachment 569991
The hatch that closes the kossing when the mast is standing has been set aside.

Of course, it's also important that both masts are straight. In position of each other and in relation to the ship:
View attachment 569992
That was a great relief.

With another photo showing her actual dimensions:
View attachment 569993

I'm already busy with the inventory of the standing and running rigging. 60 blocks are being used. Now I can determine the length of all the lines so I can place the order for those as well.
Regards, Peter
Masterly shaping of the masts Peter! What wood did you use for the masts? It looks like beech. I had a lot of problems sourcing some quality dowels that weren't warped or had damaged grains when I shaped them, I think I went through several meters before I was able to find some good pieces of suitable length.

Only 60 blocks - I could only wish - I have 730 to rig!

Dom
 
Masterly shaping of the masts Peter! What wood did you use for the masts? It looks like beech. I had a lot of problems sourcing some quality dowels that weren't warped or had damaged grains when I shaped them, I think I went through several meters before I was able to find some good pieces of suitable length.
Thanks, Dom. It is indeed beech. I checked a lot of pieces at the store and it was hard to find 2 almost straight 1 meter examples of the 12 mm en 10 mm. Most of them were warped. From the ones I had I was able to get the desired lengths.
Only 60 blocks - I could only wish - I have 730 to rig!
Dom
Haha, that's why the Cutty Sark in still on my list, to build her fully rigged. But whether that will happen ......... ;)
Regards, Peter
 
Good morning Peter. Stunning. Harry Potter would be proud of those.... Cheers Grant
I'm waiting for Dobby to come around again…….. ROTF
Guess who was suddenly there again...
0973 Dobby.jpg
He had to check if the wands were strong enough. I did warn him to hold on tight. He simply said, "Dobby knows..."
PS: For those of you thinking 'What is this nonsense'......--> Dobby <-- (Click) was visiting earlier......
Regards, Peter
 
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