- Joined
- Dec 3, 2018
- Messages
- 2,450
- Points
- 538
Donnie, try with a request directly to Byrnes / Donna, (mmllc@cfl.rr.com), I also had big problems with my order.
-
"2026 Annual SOS Donation Drive Underway"
Please consider making a Donation to SOS to support our continuing growth and developement. It is greatly appreciated !!!
*** Read More - - Click Here ***
https://www.paypal.me/DonateSOS
-
SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE MARCH/APRIL 2026 -
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]
I have a mini Taig Lathe and Mill but had I know better 10+ years ago I would have gone with Sherline. Sherline has tons of accessories / manuals and info where Taig has none. I don’t know anything about Harbor Freight but they look nice and are less expensive
DONNIE, For thickness sander why not get the one like i have half the price of the hobby size one, the best friend, I HAVE BEEN USING IT CONSTALY, VERY GOOD RESULTS, can get a 5/8 inch material dow to 1/16th and even a little less, it is attached to my DRILL PRESS WITH A HOME MADE PLATE TO SECRE IT. Don
Sounds like a good one to have, can you tell me a bit more please?
Various reasons, I bought the Drum Sander from Micro-Mark. I am going to continue with my Cannon project now until that comes. Then I will begin the Frames project.
I decided to go ahead and cut out the Keel since I am waiting for Drum Sander. Here is what is going on now. I am using a down-cut end mill for wood. The part number is PWD2-125-1 and can be bought here http://www.2linc.com/endmills_downcut_2fl.htm This end mill does not fray out and leaves a nice clean cut, but take your time and cut small cuts.
I am using two parallel bars and two wooden spacers as to not mar the Keel. I did not want the vise jaws to be touching the Keel. This is not being a perfectionist, but just following usual machining practices. Only take a few minutes to set up. The main vise is square to the Milling Plate with Triangle. All I can say is that I hope that I am doing this correctly.
I am using two parallel bars and two wooden spacers as to not mar the Keel. I did not want the vise jaws to be touching the Keel. This is not being a perfectionist, but just following usual machining practices. Only take a few minutes to set up. The main vise is square to the Milling Plate with Triangle. All I can say is that I hope that I am doing this correctly.
I’ve got to get a mill...and then learn how to use it!
Looks good, Donnie! Great start.
It looks to me like you’re on the right track. I’ve waited to cut the notches on the rising wood until the frame stock is milled up so the fit can be adjusted so it’s snug. That’s what I’m doing on my Hannah build. But even if the fit is loose, Mike’s design will let you mount the frames with no problem.
Looks good, Donnie! Great start.
It looks to me like you’re on the right track. I’ve waited to cut the notches on the rising wood until the frame stock is milled up so the fit can be adjusted so it’s snug. That’s what I’m doing on my Hannah build. But even if the fit is loose, Mike’s design will let you mount the frames with no problem.
Very clean work Donnie 
I notice you have a XYZ DRO on your mill,something I need to invest in one for mine for ease of repeatability,Sadly it isn't a simple installation on mine requiring custom brackets and lots of drilling and tapping.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I notice you have a XYZ DRO on your mill,something I need to invest in one for mine for ease of repeatability,Sadly it isn't a simple installation on mine requiring custom brackets and lots of drilling and tapping.Kind Regards
Nigel
Well...nothing to add to what Doc and Mike said. Very thorough preparation and as the result - great execution! It is not enough to have great tools, you must know how to use them... 
Great job, Donnie! 
p.s. great close up pictures, without distortion, all in focus! I wana to learn this...
Great job, Donnie! p.s. great close up pictures, without distortion, all in focus! I wana to learn this...
Thank you all for the nice compliments.
Mike, I just blow off the dust as I go. In the video, I actually have a shop vac nozzle pointed towards End Mill and serves well to draw up the dust as I am milling at the same time. It is really necessary to keep track of the cutting and not over cut the line.
Dave, I have read your log as well as others, and it is to you all that I give credit for helping me just this far.
Nigel, the DRO (Digital Read Out) comes complete from Sherline and only fits Sherline products. Very easy to install. The optical encoders are built into the handwheels and all you have to do is change out the factory handwheels with the ones that have the encoders built into them. The Micro-Mark Lathe also has a fitment to add their encoders as well. However, there are aftermarket encoders (which is really like a long caliper) to add to the lathe and I think it can be troublesome to add.
Jim, The camera that I have is just a basic point and shoot Canon SX740 HS and has an automatic "Macro Mode". There are some menu adjustments to make to how the camera does focusing. If it is left to 'autofocus', it will drive you crazy as the camera is constantly hunting for focus especially on Macro Mode as the camera does not know to focus on the object or the background. So, I disable the autofocus. Zoom in on the object. Press the shutter down "half-way" to lock in the focus, then turn on the REC button.
So, I decided to make another video to show how I do this. PLEASE take note, the video is sped up by 6X 's normal speed. I think this will be quite obvious as you watch it - LOL
Mike, I just blow off the dust as I go. In the video, I actually have a shop vac nozzle pointed towards End Mill and serves well to draw up the dust as I am milling at the same time. It is really necessary to keep track of the cutting and not over cut the line.
Dave, I have read your log as well as others, and it is to you all that I give credit for helping me just this far.
Nigel, the DRO (Digital Read Out) comes complete from Sherline and only fits Sherline products. Very easy to install. The optical encoders are built into the handwheels and all you have to do is change out the factory handwheels with the ones that have the encoders built into them. The Micro-Mark Lathe also has a fitment to add their encoders as well. However, there are aftermarket encoders (which is really like a long caliper) to add to the lathe and I think it can be troublesome to add.
Jim, The camera that I have is just a basic point and shoot Canon SX740 HS and has an automatic "Macro Mode". There are some menu adjustments to make to how the camera does focusing. If it is left to 'autofocus', it will drive you crazy as the camera is constantly hunting for focus especially on Macro Mode as the camera does not know to focus on the object or the background. So, I disable the autofocus. Zoom in on the object. Press the shutter down "half-way" to lock in the focus, then turn on the REC button.
So, I decided to make another video to show how I do this. PLEASE take note, the video is sped up by 6X 's normal speed. I think this will be quite obvious as you watch it - LOL
Very good work - and informative video - Great !!!
Extremly well done Donnie!!
for the member who asked about my poor mans thickness sander here is some pictures got mine through AMOZON it is called the LUTHIERS BEST FRIEND cost approx. $200.00
Great job on that keel, Donnie!
I got back to finish my Cannon barrels. Now, I need to drill out the hole for the Trunnion. The Trunnion diameter (as far as my measurements see) according to the AOTS book is the same diameter as the cannon bore. The hole will be drilled first, then the Trunnion will be made to fit. Making two cannons without a (die) template and only using the plans and calipers is a fairly decent job granted you have the patience to transfer measurements and to take your time. So, therefore, considering the amount of time I wish to spend on these gives the results. For better or worse, this is the final product. They will be painted flat black or blackened.
I did not track the time, but I might say about 6 - 7 hours to make each.
I did not track the time, but I might say about 6 - 7 hours to make each.
beautiful work DONNIE. Don
Awesome results...that's all I can say.
Oh my god, 6-7 hour one? How many of those you have to do?