Well done Mark , a beautiful result , painting or not a personal choice and I concur with Heinrich in this aspect 
My last model went unpainted because the mahogany looked too nice to hide, but my current model will be painted white for historic accuracy. The wood looks so good though! At least it will save me from having to make a zillion trenails below the waterline.Onwards and upwards. My sales pitch to claim remuneration for model ship building from my workplace fell on deaf ears so I have been obliged to open the shipyard at home again and sneak in occasionally to progress my HMS Fly. Next on the task list is the second layer of planking. These are walnut planks 1mm x 4mm in a variety of shades and colours. First off though, I stole an idea for planking clamps from Olga (@shipphotographer.com) who is a wizard at this sort of thing and used them to good effect on her Pegasus build.
View attachment 332489
I started with the first strake below the wale and worked my way downwards towards the keel. Or rather upwards towards the keel with the hull flipped upside down. Twenty one strakes are required on either side of the hull although the calculation was complicated somewhat by each plank being a smidgen over 4mm in width.
View attachment 332490
As with the first layer of planking strips, I used steam to twist, and a heated iron to bend the planks into shape. Pre-forming the plank removes all the stress and tension when the strake is eventually fixed and left to dry on the hull. i.e. No sprung planks
View attachment 332491
I began the tapering towards the bow earlier than I had with the first layer of planking, which I think I had left too late. The clamps worked a treat by applying pressure in two directions, downwards against the surface of the hull and laterally against the edge of the previously installed strake.
View attachment 332492
For all my care and attempts at precision I continue to find the planking process something of an enigma. I was led to believe that the second layer would be a lot easier than the first, having learnt from the mistakes of the first layer and also having a solid area to plank against. But I found it every bit as complicated as I had the first layer, if not more so, being constantly aware that this was the presentation layer and had to be done properly. For instance, my tapering at the bow was never going to be good enough and, rather than using drop planks, I opted for ending the strake short of its full length as shown below in a photo that Heinrich sent me a little while ago. This worked quite well, but my version was nowhere near the perfection of this example
View attachment 332493
I can console myself with the fact that most of the hull will be painted over in a brilliant white eventually, but it is nice to know that, perhaps one day, I too can plank away like the best of them. I found the stern area a bit easier to plank, although with the Fly's curvy hull it still took a combination of tapering and stealers to get me over the line.
View attachment 332494
I can see why some Fly modellers prefer to leave their hull in its natural state. With some sanding and finishing I think that I too will be hard-pressed to hide all that beautiful walnut with white paint. We'll see.
View attachment 332495
In case you do leave the second layer of walnut unpainted, it pays to install two strakes of a similar shade and colour on either side of the hull at the same time.
View attachment 332496
Well that's as good as my planking gets at this stage. The planking below the wale is now complete and only requires a bit more sanding and then a decision on whether or not to paint it below the waterline
View attachment 332497
Good morning Mark. There is no need to “console” yourself and your “as good as my planking gets” is pretty awesome. I love the way you created the pattern with the different walnut shades. If you choose not to paint, this hull will look brilliant especially with a little Clou or Matt finishing. This is good work Mark. Cheers GrantOnwards and upwards. My sales pitch to claim remuneration for model ship building from my workplace fell on deaf ears so I have been obliged to open the shipyard at home again and sneak in occasionally to progress my HMS Fly. Next on the task list is the second layer of planking. These are walnut planks 1mm x 4mm in a variety of shades and colours. First off though, I stole an idea for planking clamps from Olga (@shipphotographer.com) who is a wizard at this sort of thing and used them to good effect on her Pegasus build.
View attachment 332489
I started with the first strake below the wale and worked my way downwards towards the keel. Or rather upwards towards the keel with the hull flipped upside down. Twenty one strakes are required on either side of the hull although the calculation was complicated somewhat by each plank being a smidgen over 4mm in width.
View attachment 332490
As with the first layer of planking strips, I used steam to twist, and a heated iron to bend the planks into shape. Pre-forming the plank removes all the stress and tension when the strake is eventually fixed and left to dry on the hull. i.e. No sprung planks
View attachment 332491
I began the tapering towards the bow earlier than I had with the first layer of planking, which I think I had left too late. The clamps worked a treat by applying pressure in two directions, downwards against the surface of the hull and laterally against the edge of the previously installed strake.
View attachment 332492
For all my care and attempts at precision I continue to find the planking process something of an enigma. I was led to believe that the second layer would be a lot easier than the first, having learnt from the mistakes of the first layer and also having a solid area to plank against. But I found it every bit as complicated as I had the first layer, if not more so, being constantly aware that this was the presentation layer and had to be done properly. For instance, my tapering at the bow was never going to be good enough and, rather than using drop planks, I opted for ending the strake short of its full length as shown below in a photo that Heinrich sent me a little while ago. This worked quite well, but my version was nowhere near the perfection of this example
View attachment 332493
I can console myself with the fact that most of the hull will be painted over in a brilliant white eventually, but it is nice to know that, perhaps one day, I too can plank away like the best of them. I found the stern area a bit easier to plank, although with the Fly's curvy hull it still took a combination of tapering and stealers to get me over the line.
View attachment 332494
I can see why some Fly modellers prefer to leave their hull in its natural state. With some sanding and finishing I think that I too will be hard-pressed to hide all that beautiful walnut with white paint. We'll see.
View attachment 332495
In case you do leave the second layer of walnut unpainted, it pays to install two strakes of a similar shade and colour on either side of the hull at the same time.
View attachment 332496
Well that's as good as my planking gets at this stage. The planking below the wale is now complete and only requires a bit more sanding and then a decision on whether or not to paint it below the waterline
View attachment 332497
WOW Mark! I think your result is outstanding in every way. The fit of the planks is really very nice and the whole thing looks wonderful to me. And just to hear a voice from the 'other' camp...I vote for natural over painted. Of course, I don't know your vision for this build...
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Great progress . The planking looks really good and very well applied. I think to be in keeping with the historical appearance of the ship, painting is the way to go. I think it will look superb when finished. Olha did an amazing job of planking her HMS Pegasus matching the colours of the strips port and starboard - and then coppered over most of it!
I am in the same boat re. the work thing, I just don't have any spare time to retreat to the shipyard at the moment. It will be at least a couple of months before I will be able to start my new project (which is very frustrating) and then it will be "small steps" - if it takes a couple of years+ so what, I'm in no hurry. All I can do at the moment is follow a few builds and pick up some hints and tips so I will look forward to your updates!
Dom
. The planking looks really good and very well applied. I think to be in keeping with the historical appearance of the ship, painting is the way to go. I think it will look superb when finished. Olha did an amazing job of planking her HMS Pegasus matching the colours of the strips port and starboard - and then coppered over most of it! I am in the same boat re. the work thing, I just don't have any spare time to retreat to the shipyard at the moment. It will be at least a couple of months before I will be able to start my new project (which is very frustrating) and then it will be "small steps" - if it takes a couple of years+ so what, I'm in no hurry. All I can do at the moment is follow a few builds and pick up some hints and tips so I will look forward to your updates!
Dom
Thanks Heinrich. Yes the white-painted hull does look quite striking in some of the photos of the Fly that I have seen. It'll be a tough decision as I really do like the look of natural wood. I think if I can live with the visible imperfections of the hull, even if they are only known to myself, then I will forego the paint. But then the white paint looks too good to ignore as well. Aarrhh, perhaps I'll just flip a coin
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I know exactly how you feel, Mark. After I finished the planking in oak on WB#2, I really did not want to paint it. However, seeing that accuracy was the priority, I begrudgingly started painting (at least I still have WB in the natural walnut colors). What I have found is that the white makes the rest of the oak "pop" even more and it creates a "livelier effect. Even the admiral, who was very much opposed to me painting the hull, had to admit that the white looks very good.Thanks Heinrich. Yes the white-painted hull does look quite striking in some of the photos of the Fly that I have seen. It'll be a tough decision as I really do like the look of natural wood. I think if I can live with the visible imperfections of the hull, even if they are only known to myself, then I will forego the paint. But then the white paint looks too good to ignore as well. Aargh, perhaps I'll just flip a coin
Nomad, based on what you said on another thread, there is a suggestion for you : building three ship, Pegasus for the copper hull, Endeavour for the white hull and the Fly with natural tint LOL!
Thanks Paul, and nice to have a vote for the natural wood look as well. I'm not sure I had a vision for this build, never really thought about it actually. Can you buy one online?
I guess I'd assumed that the kit instructions and all the tips and tricks from other similar builds would get me over the line, but now that you've planted the seed in my head I find myself staring into the distance with a very knowing look on my face, waiting for the epiphany that will provide clearly map my pathway through to the completion of this build 
Sounds like you have a very attentive and discerning admiral in your camp Heinrich. Mine wants me to place my hull in a pond to see if it will float
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Hey ... I had been very tempted to pop the sampan into the river!Sounds like you have a very attentive and discerning admiral in your camp Heinrich. Mine wants me to place my hull in a pond to see if it will float
Thanks Robert. As much as I like working with wood I was quite happy to complete the planking beneath the wales. The white paint does look attractive when the ship is viewed as a whole, although it leaves just a small bit of the natural walnut in its wake. The jury is still out on this oneWell done Mark , a beautiful result , painting or not a personal choice and I concur with Heinrich in this aspect
Quite right Kurt, a toss up between basking in the glow of natural wood or using paint to reduce effort and hide imperfections. I hadn't even considered the trennels, thanks for pointing it out. That might be the straw to break the camel's back
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Thanks Grant, and fair chirp indeed. I need to wind back the self-pity and just get on with building the ruddy thing
Thanks Dom. I was transfixed by Olha's videos of her Pegasus planking efforts, made all the more watchable by the revved up playback speedGreat progress
I am in the same boat re. the work thing, I just don't have any spare time to retreat to the shipyard at the moment. It will be at least a couple of months before I will be able to start my new project (which is very frustrating) and then it will be "small steps" - if it takes a couple of years+ so what, I'm in no hurry. All I can do at the moment is follow a few builds and pick up some hints and tips so I will look forward to your updates!
Dom
She certainly has a knack for it, but I too was a bit shocked when she covered her perfectly symmetrical and colour-coordinated hull over with copper plates 
Yes, work certainly does cut badly into one's ship-building time, although I now have a higher regard for spare time when I can afford it. The only drawback is the disruption of momentum when you get into a groove with repetitive tasks, such as hull or deck planking. But as you say, no hurry
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Good morning Mark. Yep- these ships…one plank, one block, one line at a time. We are insane! White paint on the hull…when I painted my little boats for my Victory white paint accentuated all my faults. I thought I had the planking spot on and then…… the white paint is like a fault magnifierThanks Grant, and fair chirp indeed. I need to wind back the self-pity and just get on with building the ruddy thing
.What ever epiphany you have, if it is white check that hull out again and again before painting. Cheers Grant
Beware the temptress...Sounds like you have a very attentive and discerning admiral in your camp Heinrich. Mine wants me to place my hull in a pond to see if it will float
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So in marine term... a syren ?Beware the temptress...
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Hello Mark,
With respect to the paint or no-paint topic; with my current BN build this question also arose, especially the Admiral was quite focal in stating that paint would hide too much from what's underneath. Unfortunately the LH (closed) side of the hull required some filler, to cover up a poor sanding job. This meant the no-paint option went flying. Now, having painted the port side, I find myself being attracted to the painted side; the selected paint colors are breathtaking, if I may say so myself. And the beauty of the Bluenose remains....
So, my personal opinion is that painting (part of) your HMS Fly will enhance her beauty.
Kind regards,
Johan
With respect to the paint or no-paint topic; with my current BN build this question also arose, especially the Admiral was quite focal in stating that paint would hide too much from what's underneath. Unfortunately the LH (closed) side of the hull required some filler, to cover up a poor sanding job. This meant the no-paint option went flying. Now, having painted the port side, I find myself being attracted to the painted side; the selected paint colors are breathtaking, if I may say so myself. And the beauty of the Bluenose remains....
So, my personal opinion is that painting (part of) your HMS Fly will enhance her beauty.
Kind regards,
Johan