All of it looks great !
How do you support the shelves in the middle of the "boxes"? I want to do something like that but am concerned about the weight the middle shelves can support.
How do you support the shelves in the middle of the "boxes"? I want to do something like that but am concerned about the weight the middle shelves can support.
Used these shelf supports - just drill a small hole and pop them in. If you want any more info re the plywood boxes just ask
www.screwfix.com
Just realised you are the other side of the Atlantic - but expect you can get similar items there
Hafele Galvanised Steel Shelf Supports 100 Pack - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Shelf supports for 5mm holes. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
Just realised you are the other side of the Atlantic - but expect you can get similar items there
Thanks. Yes, we have similar here.Used these shelf supports - just drill a small hole and pop them in. If you want any more info re the plywood boxes just ask
Hafele Galvanised Steel Shelf Supports 100 Pack - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Shelf supports for 5mm holes. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
Just realised you are the other side of the Atlantic - but expect you can get similar items there
My old workmate beats yours, it dates back to '75/6.
Incidently, Victory does not have exposed gun port frames.
Getting on with the masts. Reading the Victory book by McGowan made me realise Occre are taking short cuts in not supplying or using instructions to do certain features that the Caldercraft model has. Its almost as if Occre once the hull was complete thought - right that's enough - just need to do the rigging ASAP and job done. Am sure it will turn out OK but one does need to look at books to see what has been missed out
Wrapped 1mm thread around the bowsprit to hold it in place - tried to use the Gammoning technique - due to lack of space this was not as successful as it should have been - should have done this before the bowsprit decking was put in place. As you can see managed to route the cord through holes in the deck and the deck grating (note to myself - need to tidy thread up.)
Am using my 18 volt drill as a lath to turn the various masts while using sandpaper to cut them down to the correct size. Used some tape to make out the central areas of the spares where the size is unchanged.
Note - the instructions for Caldercraft are superb - they detail all of the various sizes/diameters of the spares. Occre doe not do this - you have to scale sizes off the drawings which is a bit of a pain!!
As you can see have used thin rod to help connect spars together - drilled a 1mm hole in the mast, inserted a small rob and glued the spare to this have first drilled a hole in the spare. Makes it simple to put spares in at right angles to the mast
Need to buy some 6 or 7mm double/treble blocks. Used these in the Caldercraft model to suspend the spars from the mast
Next step the mizzan mast - looking forward to getting all three masts in place - its coming on well..
Wrapped 1mm thread around the bowsprit to hold it in place - tried to use the Gammoning technique - due to lack of space this was not as successful as it should have been - should have done this before the bowsprit decking was put in place. As you can see managed to route the cord through holes in the deck and the deck grating (note to myself - need to tidy thread up.)
Am using my 18 volt drill as a lath to turn the various masts while using sandpaper to cut them down to the correct size. Used some tape to make out the central areas of the spares where the size is unchanged.
Note - the instructions for Caldercraft are superb - they detail all of the various sizes/diameters of the spares. Occre doe not do this - you have to scale sizes off the drawings which is a bit of a pain!!
As you can see have used thin rod to help connect spars together - drilled a 1mm hole in the mast, inserted a small rob and glued the spare to this have first drilled a hole in the spare. Makes it simple to put spares in at right angles to the mast
Need to buy some 6 or 7mm double/treble blocks. Used these in the Caldercraft model to suspend the spars from the mast
Next step the mizzan mast - looking forward to getting all three masts in place - its coming on well..
Coming on beautifully.
Started to do the rigging on the foremast. Occre do not provide double or triple large blocks which are needed to raise and lower the main yard. So I bought some 7mm triple and 7mm double blocks from Cornwall model boats and used them, together with 0.75mm white thread left over from the Caldercraft Victory.
Started putting the shrouds complete with deadeyes in place; as you can see from the photos is very much work in progress but it is a start. Progress is slow as I had to remind myself of how it is done (threading shrouds in on alternate sides of the mast as one works down the line of deadeyes, using 0.25mm black thread to 'pinch' the shrouds together either side of the main mast)
Its going to take some time as it is a rather laborious process getting it all right with the shrouds to the correct length and the right tension.
Started putting the shrouds complete with deadeyes in place; as you can see from the photos is very much work in progress but it is a start. Progress is slow as I had to remind myself of how it is done (threading shrouds in on alternate sides of the mast as one works down the line of deadeyes, using 0.25mm black thread to 'pinch' the shrouds together either side of the main mast)
Its going to take some time as it is a rather laborious process getting it all right with the shrouds to the correct length and the right tension.
Hi Julian. Thanks for the PDF. I am surprised to see the blocks, as per exemple on page 7, seemingly installed to present the hole upside-down. Am I wrong on this?
Ops - you are absolutely right - will have to be more careful in attaching blocks in future. Thanks for pointing this out - - it all helps in improving ones skills (or lack of!!)
Hi Julian
To avoid any doubt, it is easy enough to drill the second hole(s) in each block even after they are mounted if you do not want to retie them. It takes only a few seconds to do each one. Even with a block that is the correct size for a given application many of us have found the holes are sometimes too small for the correct size rope so have to be drilled anyway. Making your own blocks of course eliminates that problem and I would bet you can make blocks by hand that are far better than those in the kit.
Allan
To avoid any doubt, it is easy enough to drill the second hole(s) in each block even after they are mounted if you do not want to retie them. It takes only a few seconds to do each one. Even with a block that is the correct size for a given application many of us have found the holes are sometimes too small for the correct size rope so have to be drilled anyway. Making your own blocks of course eliminates that problem and I would bet you can make blocks by hand that are far better than those in the kit.
Allan
A good hint to rectivy this problem
and btw:
on the first model I made the same error and installed all blocks wrong....... so really an often done mistake
-> but afterwards you will make this error never ever ones more
Will take the advice and drill a second hole. Thanks for the replies; its much appreciated!!
Completed fitting the lower shrouds and started the ratlines - 176 knots made so far; about 1500+ to go!!. Can only do about 2/3 rows in a single session as it does my upper back in!! As you can see its very much work in progress as the shrouds etc need to be tidied up.
Still very glad I have my Caldercraft Victory to refer to as to how to do the rigging as the Occre instructions are non-existent - must say though they do have drawings of the rigging to use.
Still very glad I have my Caldercraft Victory to refer to as to how to do the rigging as the Occre instructions are non-existent - must say though they do have drawings of the rigging to use.
You are right. It is a suicide to do more than 2-4 rows a day. There are so many others things which can or have to be done too. Be cafull to cut the edges away
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Tying knots on ratlines is best done with adjustable height table, as I have seen several others use.
I hope to get me one in the future, I have just one mast on my cross section and it wore my arms, shoulders and back out working up the mast.
I hope to get me one in the future, I have just one mast on my cross section and it wore my arms, shoulders and back out working up the mast.
Hi Julian
Hope you don't mind a question regarding the deadeyes in the tops. Do the plans call for a seizing in the top mast deadeyes to be above the tops? I have never seen this before, thus my question. From James Lees' Masting and Rigging, page 54: Before 1820 the futtock shrouds were hooked into the topmast deadeye plates which protruded just below the top. The below may make more sense than my wording.
Thanks
Allan
Hope you don't mind a question regarding the deadeyes in the tops. Do the plans call for a seizing in the top mast deadeyes to be above the tops? I have never seen this before, thus my question. From James Lees' Masting and Rigging, page 54: Before 1820 the futtock shrouds were hooked into the topmast deadeye plates which protruded just below the top. The below may make more sense than my wording.
Thanks
Allan
You are right of course re the deadeye on the futtock shrouds. Had thought of using deadeye strops but could not make it work (not enough room to fit - on the Caldercraft Victory they went into slots in the foretops which were covered by a strip of wood)
Occre have used the method I used - see 2.47 mins into this youtube video
Will look at it and see if I can make it more lifelike - problem is the tops are quite small and there is not much room to fit say two shrouds through a small hole on the edge of the tops
Thanks for the observation - it all helps.................
Occre have used the method I used - see 2.47 mins into this youtube video
Will look at it and see if I can make it more lifelike - problem is the tops are quite small and there is not much room to fit say two shrouds through a small hole on the edge of the tops
Thanks for the observation - it all helps.................
Hi Julian
I am not sure what you mean by fitting two shrouds through a small hole in the tops as the shrouds do not go through the holes in the tops. The deadeyes would be rigged similarly to those on the channels, with a metal strop to which the futtock shrouds are hooked. Sorry for the rough sketch
Allan
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CORRECT ALLAN.
DO NOT MAKE THINK MORE DIFFICULT, THAN THEY ARE.-EL CAPI