Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

AnobiumPunctatum said:
You forgot the trenails on the planks. Have you tried to make treenails out of holly? The contrast is in my opinion to big
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Hi Christian, where should I be adding trenails? (I was going for a simplified look but wasn't intending to leave off something obvious.)

And yes, I did try to make trenails from holly, but it is too soft. I agree, the contrast is too much.
 
Paul,

you add treenails on thick stuff of your planking (boxwood), but did not install treenails in the planking /holly). This combination is looking a little bit curious.
 
AnobiumPunctatum said:
but did not install treenails in the planking /holly).
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Oh, I understand now. I need to make more trenail stock - something has happened to my drawplate and I can't get past hole 28 (Byrnes) which leaves me with 0.7 mm trenails :(. What went into the platforms was from a remnant of the original production.
 
dockattner said:
Here is where we were on the aft platform before my digression into figuring out how to cut pockets for carlings and ledges...

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The opening at the bottom of the picture is a scuttle that leads to a fish hold (or on some later ships a spirit room). I wanted to represent half of the hatch leading to that space. First, I needed to make a faux hinge by soldering a bit of brass wire to a PE hinge sourced from my Vasa kit.

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Trimmed up, burnished, and placed on the half-hatch:

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Not great, but good enough for something you won't be able to see :rolleyes:.

And while I was burnishing something I added some brass sheaves (these were purchased but had to be sanded down to fit the 1 mm slot in the fixed block):

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Here is the final appearance of the aft platform:

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There should be some bulkheads/dividing walls under the platform but I'm leaving them off.

I had to take several shots are the forward platform(s). I struggled here. The geometry of the platforms and the geometry of the interior hull would not cooperate and there were some wasted hours. In the midst of my struggles I failed to take progress photos, but here is the final result:

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Nothing has been fixed in place so there are some minor alignment issues. There are things above these platforms that need to align with the platforms, so I'll postpone glueing anything down for a few months...

Thanks for the visit!
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So this is the fuss it was all about. See, it wasn't so painful. Finally I can say it to a dentist :)ROTF
 
dockattner said:
I had to take several shots are the forward platform(s). I struggled here. The geometry of the platforms and the geometry of the interior hull would not cooperate and there were some wasted hours. In the midst of my struggles I failed to take progress photos, but here is the final result
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It looks like a jig-saw puzzle to me Paul. And not your common-or-garden type of jig-saw either; rather the 3D, mind-boggling 10,000-piece variety that can drive you nuts. Every addition you make to your Kingfisher is a joy to watch, well done Thumbsup
 
dockattner said:
I returned recently to the Lauck Street Kingfisher, and it was essentially more of the same: fitting frames - cutting fillers (recall that each of these must be customized because the space between the frames is not uniform) - and installing chocks at the tops of the frames (also requiring a custom thickness).

While the glacial pace made it hard to appreciate that progress was being made - in time the frames were all in place.

I won't declare victory quite yet because I still need to add the sills for the row-ports - and then there are chocks/spacers/fillers to be placed between every third frame or so along the vertical height of the frames (still need to study the plans better to understand that part).

But I was tired of framing and anything associated with framing so I spent a few days fairing the inside of the hull. I've said it before, but it bears repeating: sanding boxwood is no joke.

Anyway, having all the frames set is a significant milestone so I'll share some images.

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It's difficult to take representative photos with a full size SLR camera so I took a few pictures with my cell phone:

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Anyway, you get the idea...its faired on the inside...
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I’ve just arrived at post #883. Along the way this build log is filled with innumerate superlatives. I am overwhelmed by the beauty created by this master craftsman.
Seeing the pictures of the frames and being inside the hull of this ship felt like a religious moment, for me anyway. Like being in a temple.
Thank you Paul for sharing with us mortals.
 
dockattner said:
Hello Friends,

With the completion of the fairing, I turned my attention to the addition of trenails at the locations of the frame chocks. For anyone interested there is a nice discussion about trenails (treenails, trunnels) on Dean's build log. That conversation runs for several pages:

NORSKE LOVE - Billing Boats 1:75 scale

Nice save..Over here there's a saying about breasts and model trains; meant for kids but grown-up men are playing with them. Now this extends to Lego as well. I told my wife yesterday… the difference between a child building a model and a grown man building one, is the level of expertise! ROTF
shipsofscale.com

Issues raised include wood species, material options for the trenails, what is visible at a normal viewing distance (especially inside of a case), time commitment vs ROI, even the simple fact that once one begins there is really no turning back, etc. But at the crosshairs of that discussion was the issue of scale...

Well, for this Kingfisher build, the decision to add trenails was made long ago. Factors: 1. this is a POF build, and I really wanted to showcase the construction of the ship to the extent possible, 2. at 1:48 I believe trenails would be visible when examined at close range, 3. my earlier experiments with making trenails got me down to 0.56-0.58 mm (scaled to about 1.15 inches or 30 mm) which meant I could make 'true-to-size' trenails, 4. and finally, I like the look!

First job was to drill some holes. This was easier said than done as there is very little space inside the hull (that's where I began just in case this all went tragically wrong). I first tried to use a pin-vise type manual drill but that didn't work for me: the holes were too irregular - and I kept breaking the hardened metal drill bits. I ended up using a small, powered drill and never broke another drill bit:

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The hole is just a bit under 0.6 mm... Test fitting a boxwood trenail:

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Glued in (PVA):

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Nipped off:

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I learned that I needed to insert the trenails using my fingers and not a tool. The use of tweezers (or orthodontic pliers) tended to 'dent' the trenail and caused it to snap (yes, I broke lots of trenail strips using my fingers as well). Given the difficulty of creating trenails this small you can be confident that I used up every broken scrap I could :rolleyes:.

Here is the thickness of my trenail stock compared to a garden variety toothpick:

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Anyway, here we are after installing the trenails:

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And after sanding:

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And with a little something on the wood to show what the trenails will look like after the addition of a finish coat of poly:

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I am very happy with the size, shape, and uniformity of these trenails. I believe careful drilling, use of a draw plate to create trenail stock, and adequate sanding all contributed to the final appearance.

Next, I'll add the chock trenails to the outside of the hull - but first a short break. My bride and I are headed to Yellowstone / Glacier National Parks for some sightseeing and hiking. See you in a few weeks!
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Hi Paul in post #1001 you say “I ended up using a small, powered drill”

Can you divulge what is this drill you expertly wield? Is it a dental device or something we might be able to acquire?

Thank you again for fielding my many questions and for your enthralling log.

michael
 
Hi Paul,

If you are not happy with these hinges you have to feel ashamed of your selve, these are near perfect. Do you really think the black smith who was smashing with a heavy hammer on a red hot glowing iron bar and punching in some holes was worried a bout a tenth of an inch. He just needed a hinge ROTF
Screenshot_20240125-094451_Chrome.jpg

Like a wise snowman once said " let it go ..."
It looks great.

Ps can it open? :cool:
 
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My friend - in my opinion very good, clean and accurate execution - Very good

Only one small comment, because I think, that the planking of the aft platform was different.
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First one question - is there in front an internal wall coming? (blue arrow)
I guess yes, but than the planks of the platform would go up to the wall, so the planking would be like shown in red and you would have only on row of final treenails (red lines and not necessary treenails marked with green)
only at the front side of the hatch would be only one wood closing the gap between the wall and the hatch cover
If I would be a carpenter in the shipyard I would close the deck in this way
 
Chestcutter said:
Hi Paul in post #1001 you say “I ended up using a small, powered drill”

Can you divulge what is this drill you expertly wield? Is it a dental device or something we might be able to acquire?

Thank you again for fielding my many questions and for your enthralling log.

michael
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See this post for a picture:

Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

Amazing stuff Paul! I admire how well-placed all the trenails are, not sure how you did it that precisely at that scale. Always a wonder with your work. Happy Thanksgiving a little early!
shipsofscale.com
 
Maarten said:
Hi Paul,

If you are not happy with these hinges you have to feel ashamed of your selve, these are near perfect. Do you really think the black smith who was smashing with a heavy hammer on a red hot glowing iron bar and punching in some holes was worried a bout a tenth of an inch. He just needed a hinge ROTF
View attachment 423570

Like a wise snowman once said " let it go ..."
It looks great.

Ps can it open? :cool:
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WHAT!? Now even you have turned on me Maarten? ROTF I put my arm around your shoulder! I rode in your car! I gave you a Zind Humbrecht and Dutch cheese! I thought we bonded?!?
 
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