Le Fleuron 1729 - 64 Gun Ship PoB Scratch Build in 1:48 - (Ancre Monograph-J. Boudriot/G. Delacroix)

Hi Ken

Just to throw you a curved ball.This is a French vessel so I suspect the hull planking above the waterline would be secured with square headed nails and not tree nails. Just a thought, it should be mentioned in your monograph

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks Nigel. I do appreciate the input. As I stated in my original post. This build will NOT be building a historically accurate model. I will be taking some artistic license. It won't be a "fantasy" build, but I will be changing some things. I have reviewed a number of Le Fleuron builds. Below you can see a few where other types of fasteners were used for external hull planking above the wales. And from them I did like the appearance of the treenails, even if inaccurate.
Below are some Le Fleuron build examples.


@KUDIN used treenails, 1:48
IMG_2901.JPG.683e6f6a2e5f5edb03f330befc51a07df.jpg

Rekon on MSW used blackened rods, but @ 1:24 scale (the most historically accurate example I've found)
fleuron3664.jpg.c984138a960ab01880045dab2d6e2e66.jpg

Other 1:48 scale models
fleuron3473.jpg.087d09672a53d0aecdd7f950a75caaf0.jpg

Another treenail example @ 1:48
fleuron3114.jpg.d8328cbc01d158334665d72788ce8420.jpg

For my Le Fleuron, I'll be going with treenails. Actually, it was one of the first decisions I made when deciding to build her. As far as the wood contrast test I did, the treenails I used, as stated were not of scale. I used them because I had about 3,000 of them made already for another project. At 1.1mm they were basically 2 X larger than they should have been. This contributed to them being a bit off-putting.

*** I think if I was a crazy person and building a 1:24 or even a 1:36 scale I might go with the square headed nails Nigel. But I think the Admiral would say the ship could stay, but I had to go! ROTF

Thank you again. I do appreciate the input and value your knowledge Nigel.

Cheers!
Ken
 
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Quote from DG
The provisions are as follows:
Below the waterline: two nails and two gournables (wooden dowels) per pair, i.e. one nail and one gournable for each thickness of the pair,
Above the waterline: four nails per pair.
clous10.jpg

In between helping prepare for the weekend's reunion party, I've been sneaking into the shop when I have 30 minutes to do some one off tasks that don't require a lot of focus.

Putting the Byrne's saw to work transforming Basswood plates into the 800-1,000, 10mmX2mm planking strips to build the hull's shell. Boring. For the last hour I've been silently asking myself, "Why didn't I buy precut Basswood planks?" :confused:

View attachment 322908View attachment 322906

A little more fun than cutting planks, I decided to test the appearance of the Yellowheart wood I was thinking of using to plank the hull above and in between the wales of the ship.

Disclaimer: Plank butting standards were not followed. Treenails that are larger the correct scale in the test. The objective was to test the Yellowheart wood's finish and the contrast using it along with Pear wood treenails.

View attachment 322910
View attachment 322909View attachment 322911

I am happy with the warmth of the Yellowheart. All I did was seal it with sanding sealer, sand w/400 grit, then go over it with 000 steel wool.
No paint or "caulk coloring" was used with the treenails. I would like a slightly more subtle contrast between both the nails and planks. I will test the same, but use Swiss Pear next time as it is slightly lighter than the Pear wood.

Your thoughts are welcome.

Thanks for following.

Till next time...
As for the tree nails on the deck, I'd say they look good, but I think they're too thick and disrupting the overall look. I think if you take a smaller diameter it doesn't look bad.
 
In between helping prepare for the weekend's reunion party, I've been sneaking into the shop when I have 30 minutes to do some one off tasks that don't require a lot of focus.

Putting the Byrne's saw to work transforming Basswood plates into the 800-1,000, 10mmX2mm planking strips to build the hull's shell. Boring. For the last hour I've been silently asking myself, "Why didn't I buy precut Basswood planks?" :confused:

View attachment 322908View attachment 322906

A little more fun than cutting planks, I decided to test the appearance of the Yellowheart wood I was thinking of using to plank the hull above and in between the wales of the ship.

Disclaimer: Plank butting standards were not followed. Treenails that are larger the correct scale in the test. The objective was to test the Yellowheart wood's finish and the contrast using it along with Pear wood treenails.

View attachment 322910
View attachment 322909View attachment 322911

I am happy with the warmth of the Yellowheart. All I did was seal it with sanding sealer, sand w/400 grit, then go over it with 000 steel wool.
No paint or "caulk coloring" was used with the treenails. I would like a slightly more subtle contrast between both the nails and planks. I will test the same, but use Swiss Pear next time as it is slightly lighter than the Pear wood.

Your thoughts are welcome.

Thanks for following.

Till next time...
Ken, good afternoon. Try to make nails from birch toothpicks on the deck. Birch is lighter than pear. Yes, you still need to look for them, because mostly toothpicks are made from bamboo, but try to find them.
 
Thank you guys for the feedback.

Tobias I have stated in the post immediately above your, "As far as the wood contrast test I did, the treenails I used, as stated were not of scale. I used them because I had about 3,000 of them made already for another project. At 1.1mm they were basically 2 X larger than they should have been. This contributed to them being a bit off-putting."

So I have stated I realize already they are too big and know this. I also stated the test is for "wood color contrast" only, not overall appearance. The treenail diameter for the ship would be 1/2 as big as they are in the test.
I am also aware that the French used square nails/bolts to fasten planks above the waterline. I have chosen not to do so in 1:48 scale.
As stated in my very first post, I will not be adhering to all of the standards of the period and French. Square iron bolts will be replaced by treenails as in the examples I provided.

I can see after explaining this 3 times, I need to find a simpler or clearer way to communicate my objectives and goals with this project. It may be counter productive if I have to explain the same thing many times. :confused: Typing the same 2 paragraphs over and over is time I can be making sawdust!ROTF


Sasha, I have used birch toothpicks before and relatively happy with them. For this project however birch would be too light. Also, since tooth picks are conical in shape in order to get very uniform diameters they must be pushed into the planks Exactly the same depth. To shallow they are too narrow, to deep and they are too wide. "Necessity is the Mother of Invention". Therefore I needed a way to ensure my treenails are uniform BEFORE pushing them into the planks. So I followed others leads and use my drill press and blunt syringe needles to make them so every treenail is exactly the same.

I use the method below Sasha. These are treenails I made for my last project. I will use the same method for Le Fleuron, only the treenails will be 0.6mm instead of the 1.1mm treenails I used in the "wood color" test and in the pictures below.
20220602_140019.jpg
20220602_140900.jpg20220604_112911.jpg20220604_112919.jpg

I hope this helps explain my preference for the planking on the ship. I hope you respect my decision to do so, not for historical accuracy, but for my own personal pleasant appearance reasons.

Thank you Tobias and Sasha for taking the time to offer your feedback.

Cheers!
Ken
 
I am just now catching up to this very interesting project. I have always wanted to see someone build a ship in the method of which you are undertaking.
Excellent !!!
 
Welcome aboard Donnie! Yes, this is new for me as well. It will be challenging and hopefully rewarding at the same time. Thanks for joining my Le Fleuron journey!
 
I just can’t say no to a French flower. I will be following with great interest. I like your methodical approach, and this shell method - I am discovering - is a wonderful middle-ground between POB and POF.
Exactly! This is the reason for my choosing this construction method. If all goes well and I continue to develop my skills, I may attempt my first PoF. For now and the foreseeable future, Le Fleuron has my undivided attention. Welcome aboard mate!
 
Dear Ken,
congratulations on starting your Fleuron, I line up and take a seat with the other friends. the beginning looks promising Thumbsup Okay :)
 
Outstanding Heinrich! Thanks for joining and as always, please feel free to offer your input and knowledge. I will be physically building her, but everyone here will have their part nailing on a plank or two!! Thumbsup ;)
 
Hello All,
A bit of a boring update, but a key step in the process none the less. Everything that's been done so far is to create the correct volume of the hull and to create a strong structure. I'm slowly realizing it will be some time before this thing looks like a ship. But it's all good. I have a great imagination! :)

All of the shell's planks cut >800. Better to have them and not need them, than need them and not have them.;)

Vertical measurements/adjustments completed on bulkheads. My next step is to strengthen the bulkheads in key areas with balsa filler blocks. The two most difficult areas of the ship's shell/hull to get right are the bow and stern. These are the areas with the most complex shapes. The underlying shape of the bow will be made with a filler block, just like most models. The stern shape will be accomplished with plywood "bolsters" (After the bow). Next step.

Using the plan's top-down profile for the hawse timbers, I'll mark and cut the rough shape before mounting it onto the "fore #7" bulkhead.

Also, in preparation to ease the removal of the backbone and bulkheads above the 1st deck, I predrilled holes in the backbone.

20220313_142514.jpg20220313_142535.jpg20220313_142525.jpg

POB DryFit4.jpg

During the final check on bulkhead vertical measurements, I noticed my FIRST bad assumption.:rolleyes: On the framing plans, which I used to build the bulkheads, both the deck clamp and deck lines were shown. I assumed I could cut along the deck lines, which shows the camber of the deck. I figured I could then, later, lay the false deck right on top of the bulkheads cambered cuts. While taking the vertical measurements, I realized the cuts were just not consistent enough to do this. But I wanted to be sure. So I put some white vinegar into a spray bottle and sprayed down every bulkhead and removed all the paper from them to inspect closer. This is the first time I tried this. It came off very easily!
Transom Fix Vinegar.jpg

Nope! Not going to work as I thought. Solution: Once I remove the top half of the bulkheads, I will need to sand the cambered portion flat, mark the deck clamps' locations and build deck beams. No short cuts this time.

I know that Le Fleuron is "The Flower", but I will refer to my version at this moment, "The Ugly Duckling". If you are familiar with the fairy tale, by Danish poet, Hans Christian Andersen, eventually the ugly duckling grows into a beautiful swan. I'm going with that for now and hope she becomes beautiful with good planning and hard work and your help.

Till next time....

Cheers!
 
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ken there is no thing such a boring update - if anyone finds this boring, he/she is clearly not interested in the nitty-gritty of shipbuilding. What you are doing now bears testimony to thorough preparation - there are no shortcuts! Luckily when the preparation has been done properly, it will aid greatly in the build later on. You just keep doing what you are doing - you are doing fine! Thumbsup
 
Your start is very quick on this interresting build, I grab a chair and watch the great work you put in this French ship.
Succes and lots of building fun.
 
Welcome aboard Stephan. Thanks for joining! I may have the skills to build this model, but I don't have the talents to build my own tools like you! Feel free to offer your input and advice!

Cheers
 
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