Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac

[moreplovac]

You can use a template made out of the metal plate with correct hole diameter (like treenail metal plate)



and then push the stick thru it but I found it easier this way and gives me practice for future oars making tasks for this ship..

First I mark down the edge of a carriage and cut small cuts on all sides of a 3x3mm stick, with chisel..



Then with scalpel, cut towards the middle, small cuts on stick edges, making it round alike..



Then removed those shaves with scalpel and cut in opposite direction edges of the stick..



The end result is like this..



Then use piece of a sand paper, holding it with fingers, and twisting stick up and down, like you are trying to remove excess glue from fingers, making a ball which you can toss to someone . I used basswood which is soft wood so no need for much sanding but be careful not to break the stick.. no big deal just start from scratch if breaking happens..



End result..





Test with a wheel..





There probably is a better, quicker way but not a problem doing it this way. If you use some harder wood, it will be a bit more sanding and cutting but end results will be OK. I am planning to drill a hole and add a piece of metal or wood in an axle, after the wheel is placed on it, kind of preventing wheel from rolling of the axle..

Happy modelling..

 

[Namabiiru]

You can use a template made out of the metal plate with correct hole diameter (like treenail metal plate)

View attachment 556628

and then push the stick thru it but I found it easier this way and gives me practice for future oars making tasks for this ship..

First I mark down the edge of a carriage and cut small cuts on all sides of a 3x3mm stick, with chisel..

View attachment 556626

Then with scalpel, cut towards the middle, small cuts on stick edges, making it round alike..

View attachment 556625

Then removed those shaves with scalpel and cut in opposite direction edges of the stick..

View attachment 556624

The end result is like this..

View attachment 556623

Then use piece of a sand paper, holding it with fingers, and twisting stick up and down, like you are trying to remove excess glue from fingers, making a ball which you can toss to someone . I used basswood which is soft wood so no need for much sanding but be careful not to break the stick.. no big deal just start from scratch if breaking happens..

View attachment 556622

End result..

View attachment 556621

View attachment 556620

Test with a wheel..

View attachment 556619

View attachment 556618

There probably is a better, quicker way but not a problem doing it this way. If you use some harder wood, it will be a bit more sanding and cutting but end results will be OK. I am planning to drill a hole and add a piece of metal or wood in an axle, after the wheel is placed on it, kind of preventing wheel from rolling of the axle..

Happy modelling..

Very nice. I don’t think I could achieve such consistent results by hand.

 

[moreplovac]

Worked on the cannons, to make them a bit more realistic....
First I will sand them lightly ...



.. then bath in blackening solution, 1 minute..



... then transfer into water bath...



... then dry with a paper towel and rag..



Comparing original and treated..





And all done..



Happy modelling..

 

[GrantTyler]

Worked on the cannons, to make them a bit more realistic....
First I will sand them lightly ...

View attachment 556666

.. then bath in blackening solution, 1 minute..

View attachment 556665

... then transfer into water bath...

View attachment 556664

... then dry with a paper towel and rag..

View attachment 556662

Comparing original and treated..

View attachment 556663

View attachment 556661

And all done..

View attachment 556660

Happy modelling..

Super cool!!!! Those on the red carriages are going to look fantastic curved around your deck. Cheers Grant

 

[Namabiiru]

Super cool!!!! Those on the red carriages are going to look fantastic curved around your deck. Cheers Grant

True story!

 

[moreplovac]

All axles are done and ready for painting..



Now, black was painted on all axles..





After short drying period, axles are mounted and glued to the carriages..





Then wheels are mounted as well. Since the wood expanded a bit due to painting, I needed to sand some wheels increasing the diameter so the wheel can fit to the axle.



Then the excess axles wood was cut off.. I used carriage assembly template again to assist with keeping the carriage while I was cutting the excess wood, with hand saw.





Now, the axel area where excess wood was cut is sanded to remove bur and painted in black as well..



Brief test on the deck..



Happy modelling..

 

[Swabbie]

@moreplovac, what an interesting build. You have shown me some interesting building methods.

I have a question. What did you use as a blackening solution, as mentioned in Post #83?

I received a shocking reminder, courtesy of your post #2, of an incident that occurred at home. Back in the 1960s, my father built a cloth-sailed HMS Endeavour. A relative decided, while vacuuming the floor, to give the sail a clean. The destruction made my father put the ship into the rubbish bin.



I am looking forward to seeing how the Misicque turns out.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[moreplovac]

@moreplovac, what an interesting build. You have shown me some interesting building methods.

I have a question. What did you use as a blackening solution, as mentioned in Post #83?

I received a shocking reminder, courtesy of your post #2, of an incident that occurred at home. Back in the 1960s, my father built a cloth-sailed HMS Endeavour. A relative decided, while vacuuming the floor, to give the sail a clean. The destruction made my father put the ship into the rubbish bin.

View attachment 557268

I am looking forward to seeing how the Misicque turns out.
Thanks for sharing.

Hi Swabbie, thanks for kind words..

I am using following for blackening. All used solution am I'm kipping for future usage on separate bottle; I can use it for other blackening stages



Happy modelling.

 

[Swabbie]

Thank you, @moreplovac , for informing me about the blackening solution.

 

[moreplovac]

Today I was working on some deck planking/treenail template, trying to determine acceptable treenail simulation. First I made a deck-a-like structure..



Then marked down with a pencil all relevant points, and using home made needle..



..started to make a holes for treenails. The idea is to find out the good simulation for treenails which are very tiny in my case; here is a sample of treenails math, from one of our members..


So in my case, the width of the plank (L) is 4mm, the hole (D) is 0,3mm and the treenail should be 0.4mm, if I use regular, toothpick simulation for treenails. I have tested this approach on other part of the plank but did not like to end result, the treenail ended up bigger than I like. Next try... after drilling the D hole, I used wood putty to fill out the hole, dry it and sand... hmmm,, lets try another way... drill D holes, use a sharp HB pencil and lightly stick it into hole, sand.... the sanding will pick up most of the pencil residue but the holes ended up being with different shape, diameter, due to the home made needle not with rounded point. So I used broken 0.3 mm drill bit and hole started to appear fairly rounded. Then experimented with pencil and sanding, gave me good result. The treenail is not too visible to be focal point when you look at the deck, which is something I was aiming towards...





For now I decided to use this method, 0.3mm hole, a little bit of pencil in it and sand.. It might change depending on what will I be using for deck cover, so need to test a bit different covering options, mineral, oil, danish oil, shellac, etc... But at least I ended up making call for D hole size and tool to use..

Then I continue work on the ship, adding gun ports structure with drainage planks.



This area appears to be kind of difficult to attach just because of it curvature and not with quite bending capabilities. I broke one gun port frame plank (#31) already so ended up patching it with provided planks (not to worry, there will be planks over them after), so I am not concerned about not perfect connection at this moment, but to speed up drying process, I used mostly CA for this. The D3 white glue was added later for extra strength.

I have added lots of wood filler just because provided planks for a deck are very fragile and not keep the curvature well. If I had some other type of wood on hand, I will replace the hull planking (first plank) from kit. This way I had to use wood filler.. Second planking will stay correctly on this wood filler, tested on some other part..

But at least, I was able to get a really nice, slick hull curvature, which is a main feature (for me) of this ship.









Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

I have played a bit with slt files (for 3D printing) and was able to create interesting figures using AI... not that i'm big fan of AI... but it might find an use case instead of learning CAD programs.. but there could be different view angles...

Located on internet the following paint..



After removing all background and sharpening the figure its self in some other photo software (you should be able to see imported image in lower left corner), I was able to produce this.. (not printed yet).



And from La Rochefort plans, took a picture of carpenter and import it into software, ending up in this result..



Now I cannot wait to start printing to see if these are actually thru end results or not... Of course there are lots of options to improve, like buttons on carpenter' which are not all identical, but for a 30 min work, nice results.

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Continue with very ugly first planking layer... I think I will need to delete these pictures at the end ... they will definitely fired me on the spot back in the days...





I think I should have done planking first in the gun port area, then mark down the layout of the gun ports (part #32) then cut down excess planking and glue part #32, but... now just going opposite direction, marking location for planks, then fitting, glueing, etc..



This first layer planking boards are very flexible once left long enough in water bath..





Also making sure cannons can be positioned correctly in the gun port..



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Continue with hull work...



Sometimes the big guns are needed..



Leaving it to dry overnight, continue tomorrow...

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

A bit of a progress..



Big guns in action



Covering other parts in planking veneer.



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Have I complained about kit instructions yet? Probably did but here it is again... so I glued the part #33, kind of a bulwark frame but it was very difficult to apply bulwark inner planking on this structure once added to the ship. I mean it is possible but it would be very difficult to achieve some decent pattern so I decided to remove frames and add inner planking before putting them back to the ship. Some acetone amount assist in removing frames easily. Then frames are cleaned of residual glue and sanded.
Inner planking was then added much more easily and nicely. The final step was to remove excess veneer and send it..






Frames are put back on the ship with inner planking facing inwards..

Then I continue with inner planking...





I already have one layer of inner planking but since bulwark frame structure is very fragile with all those gun ports openings, I decided to run another veneer layer as an inner planking. This additional layer covers some imperfections on the area where bulwark frame piece meet the deck. This area will be covered with waterways but still wanted to have it less visible. There are not that many areas to hide but this extra layer will help strengthening the bulwark frame and will not have impact on the overall frame thickness.







Excess veneer was cut and sanded at the top of frames and I marked the line which needs to be followed to adjust the bulwarks hight.



Yes, there are plenty of wood putty that needs to be sanded to the smooth hull. At this point I (unless something changes) I will be painting the hull in a pattern like this but will do hull planking in the full scale regardless. For that I do need a smooth hull.



OK, back to the inside planking... I was thinking of better and easier way to lay down inside planks between kit ribs since adding one plank at the time might not produce good result for my taste.. so, first I put a scotch tap inside, covering the whole area that will receive planks, all in between ribs. The stock tap is lightly glued to the bulwark frame so it can be easily pulled off. Scotch tape is cut in longer pieces than needed so I can remove it easily..

Then I turn the whole switch tape structure over and start laying down planks, glueing them the to tape.. Once all planks are added I run two more strips of tape so it will hold the planks together once first strips are removed (those that are originally put on the frame, between ribs).
On bellow picture clearly are visible bottom and upper scotch tapes...



Then I flipped around the planks so I can cut planks following original tape ends (that were put on the frame between ribs). The upper scotch tapes are still holding planks together..



Reverse side shows no tapes since those are removed after I cut the planks into required width..



Testing again...



Then white glue was used on the frames between ribs with a small amount of CA around gun ports, on the top and bottom (close to the deck).



Once glue is dried, upper scotch tapes are removed..

So, scotch tape is hard to see once on the planks and I replaced them with painter' tape..



Here we can see bottom line with some saw dust on it, showing the deck line and towards the top, it is lightly visible pencil line marking the top of the frame...

Same process, planks are laid down on the painters tape, which was holding down to the work bench with two pieces of tape.. Once planks are positioned on the tapes, I added two lines of tape to hold the planks in a kind of a sandwich..



Then the excess veneer was removed and fitting tested..



The planks were glued to the frames and upper painter' strips were removed.



And final result...



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

A bit of sanding was done smoothing the hull before second planking...



Few more filler spots to clean..

The gun ports were opened and sanded..



There are few wood filler spots that will gets removed soon.. which are covering few fall off veneer pieces.. This area will be painted in red so no much issues there..



Then tree nail simulation process was started...



These will not be that visible once sanding is done afterwards. I used 0.3mm pencil to just leave tiny mark in the treenail holes..

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

So, last few days I spent sending the hull to have it ready for planking. This will be fun..
The hull will be painted but still want to do correct planking..








Happy modelling..