Nice work donnie, the spiral staircases are a beauty.
Regs Maarten
Regs Maarten
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Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Donnie
- Start date
- Watchers 66
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- Tags
- completed build
Thanks Maarten.
On with some more Bitts in the fore and starting to work on the Blackening of the Cannons. I finally found some agent (I think someone else here is using the same thing as I got the idea).. The stuff is the best I have ever used. Just 5 to 10 seconds is all it takes. I like the old rough look that it gives.
On with some more Bitts in the fore and starting to work on the Blackening of the Cannons. I finally found some agent (I think someone else here is using the same thing as I got the idea).. The stuff is the best I have ever used. Just 5 to 10 seconds is all it takes. I like the old rough look that it gives.
hi Donnie its gret stuff, just make you rinse well and rub down after as a full strenth it will keep eroding
G'day Donnie
As usual, you have gone well above the kit's instructions and it shows with everything you have shown us from the columns to the belfry and the spiral staircase. They are all brilliant in every aspect.
To me the fun part doing a kit it to add your own flair to the build. I know it can be a drag if you always have to alter the kit to fit things in, that's a drag.
I remember doing that on A.L. the Endeavour and after a time it felt like 'not again'.
Anyhow
Happymodeling
Greg
I've been slack!
I haven't looked on you build for about 4 weeks. Sorry about that mate.As usual, you have gone well above the kit's instructions and it shows with everything you have shown us from the columns to the belfry and the spiral staircase. They are all brilliant in every aspect.
To me the fun part doing a kit it to add your own flair to the build. I know it can be a drag if you always have to alter the kit to fit things in, that's a drag.
I remember doing that on A.L. the Endeavour and after a time it felt like 'not again'.
Anyhow
Happymodeling
Greg
It is looking realy good and many thanks for the hint of the blackening finish.....
One small hint: for me the outlet of the chimney is not looking in scale due the the fact, that it is wood with a certail material thickness.
Originally they were made out of a metal, so I would try to reduce the thickness of the chimney walls with carefully drilling or something else.....
One small hint: for me the outlet of the chimney is not looking in scale due the the fact, that it is wood with a certail material thickness.
Originally they were made out of a metal, so I would try to reduce the thickness of the chimney walls with carefully drilling or something else.....
You are correct Uwe. I will try something else later. I am starting to add cannons.
This view from this perspective is realy looking good....wow
Excellent work Donnie. From my card modeling days, I used to roll cylinders and gun barrels around a piece of dowel with heavy thick coloured paper and then coat with PVA glue. This dries hard as wood and looks far more authentic than even if made of metal. The chimney will turn out strong and realistic made this way.
Great work, Donnie!
I have only one word Donny, as usual ... beautiful work
That's a whole lot of work Donnie. I'll bet you'll be glad when it's finally finished. Looking great though so every minute in the journey makes it all worthwhile.
Bob
Bob
spectacular Donnie
Thanks guys. It is received with a great deal of humility. On with more details of the head this time. I removed the medalions from the railings so that I could work on the (gold) rails better. As you can see then I took the whole assembly and placed it temporarily until I figured out how to manage it. The brass "pieces" that support the gold railings as well as the other was a trick and a lot of strange clamps and files to help hold the gold railings just at the right position.
I highlighted in red rectangles the parts that were of interest trying to get them to line up and the reason for all the clamps, files helping with the alignment. Well, you have to do what you have to do sometimes. It might look like a disaster, but so far it is working and nothing has "sprung" loose.
I highlighted in red rectangles the parts that were of interest trying to get them to line up and the reason for all the clamps, files helping with the alignment. Well, you have to do what you have to do sometimes. It might look like a disaster, but so far it is working and nothing has "sprung" loose.
That does not look like an easy kit to build Donnie. I just noticed your hull planking. It appears like you filed the edges of each plank to get a more delineated look or is that an optical illusion? Every time I ever tried to do that it looked bad because I couldn't keep the bevel consistent from one end of the plank to the next. I was wondering what your secret was for that.
Bob
Bob
Oh my - well, thank you Bob, coming from you that is an honor. Well, the above the wales planking was lazer cut pieces. I worked on them by doing treenails and trying my best to make it look authentic (as it was, it would look to fake). So, I can't take credit for the lazer cut portion. I guess I cheated a lot by (like I said) working on the false planking to make it look more real.
The lower planking, the strips were so thin that I did not have to do anything to them (no along the edge beveling). I assume that this is what you are referring to.
Well, at any rate, I am glad that the part below is completed as I was not looking forward to this as NONE of the brass pieces fit like they should but require a lot of attention and not only that the pieces that are in the sheet of artwork - some are out of order anyway. At the beginning of the log, you will see the artwork cardboard pieces that has the brass parts glued to a sheet-art-work type of layout.
I really do not wish this kit on anyone.
The lower planking, the strips were so thin that I did not have to do anything to them (no along the edge beveling). I assume that this is what you are referring to.
Well, at any rate, I am glad that the part below is completed as I was not looking forward to this as NONE of the brass pieces fit like they should but require a lot of attention and not only that the pieces that are in the sheet of artwork - some are out of order anyway. At the beginning of the log, you will see the artwork cardboard pieces that has the brass parts glued to a sheet-art-work type of layout.
I really do not wish this kit on anyone.
more work on the head. Sorry for the poor photos. I should get my photo shot box back into action again.
Sensational !
Is there a better word for sensational, if there is, that is from me, if not? Ditto what Brian has said.
Havagooday
Greg
Well, guys - you are much too nice. I am so ready to get this kit off my workbench, but I keep adding things to it. For instance the Capstan came as a boring dull piece, so, I liven it up some.
First Image are the pieces. The handles to turn the Capstan are made from Brass rod and blackened. I had to drill the holes in the Capstan for the handles. I also added a little black "boosters" or pads underneath. The only reason I did that was to add a sense of "depth" to the capstan as if it were attached to a main shaft underneath. It did not seem right for the capstan to sit right onto the deck. So, I tried to make things a little more realistic.
I would like to wrap a few turns of rope around the capstan as if it were already attached to the anchors. I would assume that the rope would travel through the gratings down below? I know that there is a messenger cable. I think the cable that goes around the capstan is a "closed loop" and the messenger cables temporarily tie onto the main anchor cable and as the capstan turns, the crew is down below shifting and tying and untying the messenger cable off of the Capstan cable. Or at least I think this is what I understand. In other words, the capstan will always have about 3 turns of rope on it no matter what as it is a closed loop. it is the messenger cable being attached to the anchor rope that helps hoist the anchor.
First Image are the pieces. The handles to turn the Capstan are made from Brass rod and blackened. I had to drill the holes in the Capstan for the handles. I also added a little black "boosters" or pads underneath. The only reason I did that was to add a sense of "depth" to the capstan as if it were attached to a main shaft underneath. It did not seem right for the capstan to sit right onto the deck. So, I tried to make things a little more realistic.
I would like to wrap a few turns of rope around the capstan as if it were already attached to the anchors. I would assume that the rope would travel through the gratings down below? I know that there is a messenger cable. I think the cable that goes around the capstan is a "closed loop" and the messenger cables temporarily tie onto the main anchor cable and as the capstan turns, the crew is down below shifting and tying and untying the messenger cable off of the Capstan cable. Or at least I think this is what I understand. In other words, the capstan will always have about 3 turns of rope on it no matter what as it is a closed loop. it is the messenger cable being attached to the anchor rope that helps hoist the anchor.