sgtmik's HMS Blandford cross section build

Hi Mike,

It was a good thing it wasn't one of your fingers. Take a look at this drawing, Make the end cuts with a razor saw, use a knife to remove 3/8" material each end, use a drum on your Dremel to remove the remaining waste material slightly above the glue line, use a flat file to remove remaining wood to the glue line and glue in the replacement piece. Use a piece of cardstock for a template, cut it a little oversize and trim it to fit after it is in place

Frame 9 Repair.jpg
 
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for your help. I think the same mechanics can be used as the damage is between the upper and lower deck clamps frame parts 9-13 & 9-14. I will keep you posted.
 
Hi Mike,
Oops! The photo was a little too close, I couldn’t tell exactly where the damage was. The procedure remains the same. Good luck with the repair.
Mike
 
Ahoy Shipmates,
I have completed the repair of my cock-up of frame 9 aft starboard, and pressed on with my build. Thanks Mike for taking the time to assist with my repair. As you suggested I cut out the area in question and used a piece from my abandoned first build to effect the repair.
I did a great deal of sanding and have made progress in my framing of the lower deck. I have yet to glue the shot locker in place and set the deck posts. I have ordered a right angle attachment for my Dremel and when that arrives I will install the deck posts, and shot locker. IMG_2026.JPGIMG_2027.JPGIMG_2029.JPGIMG_2030.JPGIMG_2031.JPGIMG_2032.JPG
 
Ahoy Shipmates,
My ship yard has been busy finishing the lower deck framing and sanding and even managed to complete one grating with the spares left from previous projects. I also got my Lathe up and running and machined the main mast now ready for varnish.
IMG_2037.JPGThanks to Capt. Mike41 we will be learning a building the remainder of all gratings. hat's my story and I'm sticking to it.IMG_2045.JPGIMG_2038.JPGIMG_2038.JPGIMG_2040.JPGIMG_2044.JPGIMG_2046.JPGIMG_2047.JPG
 
that is really amazing - VERY nice !.
So, Sgtmik (Mike) / what type of blade (for gratings) do you use on your micromark table saw? the one that came with my saw seems to be too course.
 
It is realy looking very good. We can see very good, how massive the mast was. Imagine the forces coming down to the mast foot.....very good work
 
Hi Mike,
That is some fine workmanship on your model. If you count the cost of your new tools this is an expensive model but the next one will be very reasonable.
Do not glue the mast in place you will need to remove it to install the stuff on the next deck. We will be issuing Part 6 next week, you will see what I am talking about.
Mike
 
Hi Uwe & Mike,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for your kind comments. I'm reading Wolfram Zu Mondfeld's book "Historic Ship Models" trying to figure out how big a rope I need for the woolding. Gary had a nice post on rope sizing I just have to re-read it.
 
Looking good Mike! I am going to be spending some time on my build this weekend. Going to try and catch up. I purchased a proxxon detail sander on eBay (with transformer) and will be smoothing out the frames and keel before I start to set keelson and strakes. The footwalling and pumphouse, etc. getting excited.
 
Hi Andy,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for you kind comments. I'm glad to see your back in the ship yard you always have such great ideas for doing things.
Today I'm going to build a jig like Mike 41 suggests and try to make some gratings.
 
Hi Mike,
I measured the kerf on my table saw blade, it is .0625”. It is a little larger than yours but not much. If you use a little bee wax on the top of the jig your boards will slide easier.
Mike
 
Hi Mike,
I gave it a go yesterday but it didn't turn out to good. I kind of half a**ed it in spare time. I will go to home depot today and get a good piece of wood and use a bit more care in the build of the jig.
 
Hi Mike,
I gave it a go yesterday but it didn't turn out to good. I kind of half a**ed it in spare time. I will go to home depot today and get a good piece of wood and use a bit more care in the build of the jig.
Hi Mike,
You should use 1/8” thick Baltic Burch if you can find it, Hobby Lobby or most craft stores carry it in one-foot square pieces. The closer tolerances you hold the better the grating will turn out. Good luck.
Mike
 
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and you kind comments. I am going to use you Connie Shot locker access door as a template to build one for my Blandford Cross Section build.
 
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