OK I feel foolish because this was a dumb mistake but here goes.
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OK I feel foolish because this was a dumb mistake but here goes.
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Hi Mike,
It was a good thing it wasn't one of your fingers. Take a look at this drawing, Make the end cuts with a razor saw, use a knife to remove 3/8" material each end, use a drum on your Dremel to remove the remaining waste material slightly above the glue line, use a flat file to remove remaining wood to the glue line and glue in the replacement piece. Use a piece of cardstock for a template, cut it a little oversize and trim it to fit after it is in place
It was a good thing it wasn't one of your fingers. Take a look at this drawing, Make the end cuts with a razor saw, use a knife to remove 3/8" material each end, use a drum on your Dremel to remove the remaining waste material slightly above the glue line, use a flat file to remove remaining wood to the glue line and glue in the replacement piece. Use a piece of cardstock for a template, cut it a little oversize and trim it to fit after it is in place
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for your help. I think the same mechanics can be used as the damage is between the upper and lower deck clamps frame parts 9-13 & 9-14. I will keep you posted.
Thanks for your help. I think the same mechanics can be used as the damage is between the upper and lower deck clamps frame parts 9-13 & 9-14. I will keep you posted.
Thanks Mike
Good luck on the repair, Mike. I'm sure it will be fine.
Ahoy Shipmates,
I have completed the repair of my cock-up of frame 9 aft starboard, and pressed on with my build. Thanks Mike for taking the time to assist with my repair. As you suggested I cut out the area in question and used a piece from my abandoned first build to effect the repair.
I did a great deal of sanding and have made progress in my framing of the lower deck. I have yet to glue the shot locker in place and set the deck posts. I have ordered a right angle attachment for my Dremel and when that arrives I will install the deck posts, and shot locker.
I have completed the repair of my cock-up of frame 9 aft starboard, and pressed on with my build. Thanks Mike for taking the time to assist with my repair. As you suggested I cut out the area in question and used a piece from my abandoned first build to effect the repair.
I did a great deal of sanding and have made progress in my framing of the lower deck. I have yet to glue the shot locker in place and set the deck posts. I have ordered a right angle attachment for my Dremel and when that arrives I will install the deck posts, and shot locker.
Ahoy Shipmates,
My ship yard has been busy finishing the lower deck framing and sanding and even managed to complete one grating with the spares left from previous projects. I also got my Lathe up and running and machined the main mast now ready for varnish.
Thanks to Capt. Mike41 we will be learning a building the remainder of all gratings. hat's my story and I'm sticking to it.
My ship yard has been busy finishing the lower deck framing and sanding and even managed to complete one grating with the spares left from previous projects. I also got my Lathe up and running and machined the main mast now ready for varnish.
Thanks to Capt. Mike41 we will be learning a building the remainder of all gratings. hat's my story and I'm sticking to it.
that is really amazing - VERY nice !.
So, Sgtmik (Mike) / what type of blade (for gratings) do you use on your micromark table saw? the one that came with my saw seems to be too course.
So, Sgtmik (Mike) / what type of blade (for gratings) do you use on your micromark table saw? the one that came with my saw seems to be too course.
Hi Donnie,
I;m going to use a High Speed Steel Slitting Saws (168 teeth, .045" kerf) and the jig that Mike41 told me about. I haven't done it yet but it's coming. It will be similar to the jig I used for ladders on my Bounty.
I;m going to use a High Speed Steel Slitting Saws (168 teeth, .045" kerf) and the jig that Mike41 told me about. I haven't done it yet but it's coming. It will be similar to the jig I used for ladders on my Bounty.
It is realy looking very good. We can see very good, how massive the mast was. Imagine the forces coming down to the mast foot.....very good work
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Hi Mike,
That is some fine workmanship on your model. If you count the cost of your new tools this is an expensive model but the next one will be very reasonable.
Do not glue the mast in place you will need to remove it to install the stuff on the next deck. We will be issuing Part 6 next week, you will see what I am talking about.
Mike
That is some fine workmanship on your model. If you count the cost of your new tools this is an expensive model but the next one will be very reasonable.
Do not glue the mast in place you will need to remove it to install the stuff on the next deck. We will be issuing Part 6 next week, you will see what I am talking about.
Mike
Hi Uwe & Mike,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for your kind comments. I'm reading Wolfram Zu Mondfeld's book "Historic Ship Models" trying to figure out how big a rope I need for the woolding. Gary had a nice post on rope sizing I just have to re-read it.
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for your kind comments. I'm reading Wolfram Zu Mondfeld's book "Historic Ship Models" trying to figure out how big a rope I need for the woolding. Gary had a nice post on rope sizing I just have to re-read it.
Looking good Mike! I am going to be spending some time on my build this weekend. Going to try and catch up. I purchased a proxxon detail sander on eBay (with transformer) and will be smoothing out the frames and keel before I start to set keelson and strakes. The footwalling and pumphouse, etc. getting excited.
Hi Andy,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for you kind comments. I'm glad to see your back in the ship yard you always have such great ideas for doing things.
Today I'm going to build a jig like Mike 41 suggests and try to make some gratings.
Thanks for your visit to my build log and for you kind comments. I'm glad to see your back in the ship yard you always have such great ideas for doing things.
Today I'm going to build a jig like Mike 41 suggests and try to make some gratings.
Hi Mike,
I gave it a go yesterday but it didn't turn out to good. I kind of half a**ed it in spare time. I will go to home depot today and get a good piece of wood and use a bit more care in the build of the jig.
I gave it a go yesterday but it didn't turn out to good. I kind of half a**ed it in spare time. I will go to home depot today and get a good piece of wood and use a bit more care in the build of the jig.
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Hi Mike,
You should use 1/8” thick Baltic Burch if you can find it, Hobby Lobby or most craft stores carry it in one-foot square pieces. The closer tolerances you hold the better the grating will turn out. Good luck.
Mike
Very nice work, Mike. Your deck framing is awesome.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your visit to my build log and you kind comments. I am going to use you Connie Shot locker access door as a template to build one for my Blandford Cross Section build.
Thanks for your visit to my build log and you kind comments. I am going to use you Connie Shot locker access door as a template to build one for my Blandford Cross Section build.