YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

This definitely looks like a Bluenose, an astounding looking one at that, but a Bluenose for sure. Thumbs-UpThumbs-UpThumbs-Up
Your planning and craftsmanship is paying off.
Thanxs, Johan. Unfortunately, the D.B.B.S. meeting was just a day to early. Otherwise you and Henk would have had the scoop with the life view. :rolleyes:
Regards, Peter
 
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This calls for celebration Peter! A milestone indeed! Have a drink on me, my glass is raised from across the sea! ;)
Thanxs, Dean. Yes, closed a main chapter. Beer Now I am turning the page and looking for the next. At first I thought of working on the hull further, but decided to focus on planking the deck first. That's the easiest way for me now.
 
Another chapter finally closed Peter

Nice to see your BN live last week, your photos are always beautiful but seeing the red Ecoline color in real life was really amazing

For those who doubted the color and the Ecoline (Me) I can just say stunningly beautiful
Johan and I had the opportunity and I gained a lot of inspiration Friday
Regard
Henk
 
Another chapter finally closed Peter

Nice to see your BN live last week, your photos are always beautiful but seeing the red Ecoline color in real life was really amazing

For those who doubted the color and the Ecoline (Me) I can just say stunningly beautiful
Johan and I had the opportunity and I gained a lot of inspiration Friday
Regard
Henk
I am sure it is far better than paint, because it has transparency (like dye) that shows off the wood, and the nails upon close inspection. It’s hard to see that as well in photos, but I trust it is gorgeous in person! ;)
 
Before I start planking the deck, I first made a test sheet for the foredeck.
After the necessary measurements I came at 2.5 mm / 0.098" planks. They are max. 12 cm long, just like for the hull. That is max. over 12 frames.
Then I need 21 planks per half deck width on the widest part of the foredeck.
I had for that purpose Maple in mind and bought the necessary slats.
But according to this test, that wood is still too soft:"
653 DeckTest.jpg
It is the light wood in the lower part of the test sheet. Despite my new saw blade, it does not give a nice tight connection. Also the imitation treenails that I made with a 0.5 mm / 0.02" syringe does not give a nice tight image.
The top darker wood is what YQ supplied in the kit for the deck. But that consists of 2 large sheets: 1 for the half front deck and 1 for the half aft deck:
654 DeckTest.jpg
This is Red Beech.
In the lower part you can see that the wood has a drawing that continues over several planks.
From the remainder of the sheets I sawed some test slats. That is the darker wood in the test sheet.
Depending on the incidence of light, this also appears darker or lighter (see also above):
655 DeckTest.jpg
It has already received a layer of linseed oil. Also here the seams show some darker through the oil, so I don't have to make the sides black as caulking
That wood gives nice tight cuts and it draw the treenails tight.

I can turn the sheets over and saw slats from them. With all the leftover wood there, I can get the deck planked. That is also half planked on the port side with a certain pattern. With nibble boards where support is needed on the starboard side.

I also made the test sheet to practice inserting the plank ends into the strip against the waterways.
Regards, peter
 
I am sure it is far better than paint, because it has transparency (like dye) that shows off the wood, and the nails upon close inspection. It’s hard to see that as well in photos, but I trust it is gorgeous in person! ;)
It's a pleasure to the eyes in real life, I can tell you.
 
Before I start planking the deck, I first made a test sheet for the foredeck.
After the necessary measurements I came at 2.5 mm / 0.098" planks. They are max. 12 cm long, just like for the hull. That is max. over 12 frames.
Then I need 21 planks per half deck width on the widest part of the foredeck.
I had for that purpose Maple in mind and bought the necessary slats.
But according to this test, that wood is still too soft:"
View attachment 293748
It is the light wood in the lower part of the test sheet. Despite my new saw blade, it does not give a nice tight connection. Also the imitation treenails that I made with a 0.5 mm / 0.02" syringe does not give a nice tight image.
The top darker wood is what YQ supplied in the kit for the deck. But that consists of 2 large sheets: 1 for the half front deck and 1 for the half aft deck:
View attachment 293749
This is Red Beech.
In the lower part you can see that the wood has a drawing that continues over several planks.
From the remainder of the sheets I sawed some test slats. That is the darker wood in the test sheet.
Depending on the incidence of light, this also appears darker or lighter (see also above):
View attachment 293750
It has already received a layer of linseed oil. Also here the seams show some darker through the oil, so I don't have to make the sides black as caulking
That wood gives nice tight cuts and it draw the treenails tight.

I can turn the sheets over and saw slats from them. With all the leftover wood there, I can get the deck planked. That is also half planked on the port side with a certain pattern. With nibble boards where support is needed on the starboard side.

I also made the test sheet to practice inserting the plank ends into the strip against the waterways.
Regards, peter
I prefer the darker wood, somehow it lends more character to your model.
 
I prefer the darker wood, somehow it lends more character to your model.
If you are going for accuracy, I believe it was a lighter reddish brown. Of course it all depends on if Peter wants to take any liberties, or strictly adhere to what the ship had originally. Thus far he is following the history with accuracy, no liberties that I am aware of. ;)
 
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