Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory 1805

Thanks. I checked the post and yeh that seems a better way of doing it. I did try to find some 1 or 1.3 and then use some veneer strips for the planking but could only find 1.5mm.

Whilst I wait for delivery I will, same as you, persevere for video 3. I've done the hardest one to cut (the panel with the cutaway) in and only managed to break it in 4 places haha.

Thanks
Hi
I have not started my Victory yet but in preparation for possible issues with making the panels from strips I bought this from Amazon. It's 1.5 Basswood so I will probably follow Alans lead and scribe the panels with a H6 pencil to give some definition to the planks.
Regards
Tony
 
Hi
I have not started my Victory yet but in preparation for possible issues with making the panels from strips I bought this from Amazon. It's 1.5 Basswood so I will probably follow Alans lead and scribe the panels with a H6 pencil to give some definition to the planks.
Regards
Tony
I would not use basswood if you are going to stain or have it be natural wood finish. It's a softer wood and has poor grain which doesn't look great when stained. The grain is very open and coarse. It is typically used for structural work on models, and covered over with a thin veneer of quality hardwood. It bends well after soaking in water, but the coarse grain will splinter if you bend it too far. However, if you are painting the wood, it will work just fine. The open grain may give the finish a rough look, however, so sealing and sanding should be done before painting if you want it smooth. It doesn't want to get super smooth with sanding alone, and retains a slightly rough, hairy surface. It is very cheap to buy. Popsicle sticks are made from basswood, so you know what that's like. Experiment with finishing before you commit to using basswood as your finish layer wood. If you want an inexpensive wood that's easily available in the U.S.A. for deck planking, try maple, and for the hull, cherry or walnut. I'm not sure what woods are easy to get in Australia or New Zealand. I always wanted to visit those countries!
 
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I would not use basswood if you are going to stain or have it be natural wood finish. It's a softer wood and has poor grain which doesn't look great when stained. The grain is very open and coarse. It is typically used for structural work on models, and covered over with a thin veneer of quality hardwood. It bends well after soaking in water, but the coarse grain will splinter if you bend it too far. However, if you are painting the wood, it will work just fine. The open grain may give the finish a rough look, however, so sealing and sanding should be done before painting if you want it smooth. It doesn't want to get super smooth with sanding alone, and retains a slightly rough, hairy surface. It is very cheap to buy. Popsicle sticks are made from basswood, so you know what that's like. Experiment with finishing before you commit to using basswood as your finish layer wood. If you want an inexpensive wood that's easily available in the U.S.A. for deck planking, try maple, and for the hull, cherry or walnut. I'm not sure what woods are easy to get in Australia or New Zealand. I always wanted to visit those countries!
I went for Birch, mainly because it was the quickest available ply I could source. (I hate being held up waiting for deliveries).

There seems to be mixed opinions/experience with staining birch...
 
I would not use basswood if you are going to stain or have it be natural wood finish. It's a softer wood and has poor grain which doesn't look great when stained. The grain is very open and coarse. It is typically used for structural work on models, and covered over with a thin veneer of quality hardwood. It bends well after soaking in water, but the coarse grain will splinter if you bend it too far. However, if you are painting the wood, it will work just fine. The open grain may give the finish a rough look, however, so sealing and sanding should be done before painting if you want it smooth. It doesn't want to get super smooth with sanding alone, and retains a slightly rough, hairy surface. It is very cheap to buy. Popsicle sticks are made from basswood, so you know what that's like. Experiment with finishing before you commit to using basswood as your finish layer wood. If you want an inexpensive wood that's easily available in the U.S.A. for deck planking, try maple, and for the hull, cherry or walnut. I'm not sure what woods are easy to get in Australia or New Zealand. I always wanted to visit those countries!
This is for compartment walls in the hold and is barely visible on the finished model
I used it and found it stained ok for the purpose

IMG_1996.jpeg
 
Popsicle sticks are made from basswood,
About 18 months ago learned from an ice cream guru that popsicle sticks are made from birchwood and willowood the majority of the time but basswood and aspen are used on occasion. I am part way along a project (currently on hold) for a client that wanted the entire model of the Atocha 1620 made from popsicle sticks from his ice cream bar, Doozee. The color of the sticks varies a lot, and not nearly as nice to work with as box, castello, apple or pear. But, it is much better than the open grained sapelli (so called walnut) junk seen so often. The length of the sticks also makes things a bit difficult at times, but not too bad depending on the scale of the model. A pic from part way through the build is below. Some rework needs to be done, but nothing major. The entire build is somewhat speculative as there is virtually no contemporary information as found in later years, so a lot of fun making best guesses and using drawings by Fouret et al. The sticks have the ice cream store name on one side so I flipped over most of them, so the name is not shown on every plank. Per his request I did not flip all of them as he wanted some of them shown as you can see in the photo.
Allan
1744037640403.jpeg
 
About 18 months ago learned from an ice cream guru that popsicle sticks are made from birchwood and willowood the majority of the time but basswood and aspen are used on occasion. I am part way along a project (currently on hold) for a client that wanted the entire model of the Atocha 1620 made from popsicle sticks from his ice cream bar, Doozee. The color of the sticks varies a lot, and not nearly as nice to work with as box, castello, apple or pear. But, it is much better than the open grained sapelli (so called walnut) junk seen so often. The length of the sticks also makes things a bit difficult at times, but not too bad depending on the scale of the model. A pic from part way through the build is below. Some rework needs to be done, but nothing major. The entire build is somewhat speculative as there is virtually no contemporary information as found in later years, so a lot of fun making best guesses and using drawings by Fouret et al. The sticks have the ice cream store name on one side so I flipped over most of them, so the name is not shown on every plank. Per his request I did not flip all of them as he wanted some of them shown as you can see in the photo.
Allan
View attachment 512044
Very cool Allan, very impressive. So, how many popsicles have you devoured to get to this pointROTF. Cheers Grant
 
... a client that wanted the entire model of the Atocha 1620 made from popsicle sticks from his ice cream bar, Doozee ...

I love it! What a novelty. (Yes, cheesy pun intended. :rolleyes:) I hope he gave you new sticks and not ones from a collection bin outside his establishment! ROTF

Is the skeletal structure made from them as well?
 
Alas, they were all new, with no tasty treat to be eaten on them. Then again, they sent upwards of 1000 of them so I would have had to buy a large freezer!! There are enough to build a fleet.

Allan
 
Is the skeletal structure made from them as well?
I built this plank on bulkhead and used birch veneer plywood for the bulkheads. While there are no contemporary drawings in existence, I spoke with the folks at the Mel Fisher Museum in Key West and was told the drawing I had found below was a reasonable conjecture. I took the first drawing below as my base then made the second drawing below for the bulkheads. It was not an overly long or difficult part of the project.
Allan
1744052208694.jpeg
My renderings below
1744052272967.png
 
I built this plank on bulkhead and used birch veneer plywood for the bulkheads. While there are no contemporary drawings in existence, I spoke with the folks at the Mel Fisher Museum in Key West and was told the drawing I had found below was a reasonable conjecture. I took the first drawing below as my base then made the second drawing below for the bulkheads. It was not an overly long or difficult part of the project.
Allan
View attachment 512133
My renderings below
View attachment 512134
Allan, I don’t wish to be rude, but this thread is for my Anatomy of Nelsons HMS Victory
By all means start a separate thread for this great looking model otherwise this thread will become disjointed
Regards
Alan
 
Allan, I don’t wish to be rude, but this thread is for my Anatomy of Nelsons HMS Victory
By all means start a separate thread for this great looking model otherwise this thread will become disjointed
You are absolutely correct. I did get into the wood discussion and ignored the base topic and got carried away. Please know that you and the team have my very sincere apology.
Allan
 
You are absolutely correct. I did get into the wood discussion and ignored the base topic and got carried away. Please know that you and the team have my very sincere apology.
Allan
Thank you for your understanding Allan
I look forward to seeing your continued input and discussion on the HMS Victory model
ps. Still plodding away on video #17
Regards
Alan
 
I see why video #17 will take some time the internal framing of the gunports are mini projects on their own. It makes me smile somewhat when the guy installed and painted one gunport, then in the next shot all 32 were complete :). Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Regards
Tony
 
Yeah, fitting those gun port linings is difficult for me as the action of pushing them in position causes me some pain in the hands. Due to 50 odd years of manual work as an electrician I have worn away all the cartilage in my lower thumb joints at the base of the trapezium bone, so I can only manage a few at a time before having to rest my hands
But I’ll get there Thumbsup
 
Yeah, fitting those gun port linings is difficult for me as the action of pushing them in position causes me some pain in the hands. Due to 50 odd years of manual work as an electrician I have worn away all the cartilage in my lower thumb joints at the base of the trapezium bone, so I can only manage a few at a time before having to rest my hands
But I’ll get there Thumbsup
OUCHY!
 
Sorry to hear about the hand issues. My dad was also an electrician and always had hand issues too. I think chasing wires into brick with a bolster chisel did not help. I'm lucky I did my 46 years in the Graphic Arts Industry mostly at printing companies. My issues are my knees after 20 odd years of wicket keeping. Hopefully I wont ever drop the model.
Regards
Tony
 
Hello Alan,

I came across your build report on HMS Victory by chance. This kit from AL is currently the best you can get for the money. Simply incredibly detailed. A dream. Of course, it doesn't fit quite as well in some places and requires some reworking. But that's character, and that's the challenge of a model builder.
I also bought this kit and will build it. Now I'm busy with the Athena. It's a conversion of the Black Swan by OcCre. If you want really good information on the Victory, I recommend the books "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by C. Nepean Longride and "HMS Victory her Construction, Career and Restoration" by Alan McGowan. They also cover the ammunition bays and their positions. If you don't mind, I'll be following your build report, which is really interesting. Great pictures and great work.

Best,
Günter
 
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