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Blandford Cross Section Group Build

DocBlake's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build - 1/32 Scale - COMPLETE!

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I've been busy since I'm back from vacation. I carefully removed the cannons from the billet, cleaned them up with an X-Acto and some files and dyed them black. The photos show the guns with one coat of poly. The detail is maintained even after dying and poly! There are no cap squares yet.

I also finished the fenders and the boarding stairs and glued them in place. No poly on any of the outside structures yet.finish1.jpgfinish2.jpgfinish3.jpgfinish4.jpgfinish5.jpgfinish6.jpg
 

Jimsky

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Hi Dave. Dyed cannons looks great! I am wonder if they (cannon barrels) can be look even more authentic after giving them a coat of metallic layer described by @Maarten when he made his anchors


or spray paint Karl (@Jeronimo) uses when fabricate his anchors


What do you think, Dave? If there such spray or similar in the US? I am impressed with the end result.
 
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Hi Dave. Dyed cannons looks great! I am wonder if they (cannon barrels) can be look even more authentic after giving them a coat of metallic layer described by @Maarten when he made his anchors
Believe it or not, a simpler technique would be to do some very subtle dry-brushing to bring out the texture highlights using a very light grey or nearly white paint. Those of you familiar with painting and weathering plastic models would be familiar with this technique. Easy to do, but requires some practice as it does require a subtle touch. A metallic color could be used but could easily be over-done. There is already texture in the carving. The primary goal is to trick the eye with a high contrast of color between dark and light. This gives the illusion of "depth of scale", especially when photographed.
 
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Jim add me also to the PAINT and DON not getting along. To MIKE have you considered doing any thing comercialy with the cnc 3-d like capoastans etc if the plans were sent to you. THANKS Don
 
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To MIKE have you considered doing any thing comercialy with the cnc 3-d like capoastans etc if the plans were sent to you. THANKS Don
Hi Don. I pretty much have my hands full keeping up with my wife's cutting board/glass gift engraving business ( www.wellwrittengifts.com ). I personally haven't been able to "complete" a model myself in nearly 2 years. I tend to focus in on a specific topic (like Doc's cannons) and just go for it... mostly just to see if I can do it. I prefer to do my own CAD drawings to fit my style of CNC and laser machining practices. Honestly, there just isn't enough money in commercial model kit fabrication to make it worth my time. However, I will do favors for SoS members on the side if it is interesting and specific... time permitting. I much prefer to keep modeling my hobby and art form rather than calling it a job. :) I do appreciate your question and take it as a compliment.
 
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I've been busy since I'm back from vacation. I carefully removed the cannons from the billet, cleaned them up with an X-Acto and some files and dyed them black. The photos show the guns with one coat of poly. The detail is maintained even after dying and poly! There are no cap squares yet.

I also finished the fenders and the boarding stairs and glued them in place. No poly on any of the outside structures yet.View attachment 115435View attachment 115436View attachment 115437View attachment 115438View attachment 115439View attachment 115440
Lovely work - as ever. Particularly like the cannon!
Ted
 
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I need to get this model finished!

I made my own blocks from swiss pear. They are 8 scale inches long, or 1/4" on the model. The single blocks are cut from 1/8" X 3/16" stock, and the double blocks are from 3/16" square stock. The sequence is:

-Mark the location of the sheave holes and drill them through with a #60 drill
-Connect the sheave holes with a groove, using a curved X-Acto blade.
-Round one end of each block, then cut them off at 1/4" and round off the other.
-File stropping grooves into the block faces.
-Treat with boiled linseed oil to darken.


block1.jpgblock2.jpg
 
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