LE ROCHEFORT

Don,

this paperframe is very flexible, especially with the glue on it. So I am afraid that you get new inaccuracies if you glue this to the timber. Don't cut out any paper in the middle of the frame. before you have glued the template on the timber. So it is much simpler to get the right shape of the frame.

If you have problems to go to the copyshop and you have a scanner: scan the frame from the original drawing (150DPI) as a PDF file. Then you can print it out each time if you need a template. It's important that you pringt every time with 100 %.
 
Hi CHRISTIAN, NEED TO DIGEST THIS A LITTLE may need a little bit more help,,,,pictures showing sanding 1st layer did not turn out to well but i think liveable 2nd layer (red) turned out better i have left 1.5mm meat some need more work near the notches there is meat left all around just not to consistant hope to get better with doing more next frame No.2320200415_054755.jpg20200415_055238.jpg20200415_055335.jpg20200415_054907.jpg
 
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Hi Christian, i understand about the flexibility and leading to more problems, but do not understand what you mean about paper in the middle of the frame,,, and yes i have many prints of the frames all done by FED-X off the originals and i am going to need more but we are in lockdown supposed to be released sometime this month, not to sure about that, i really can see how the flexibility of the pattern can mess it up, need to understand what you mean, and with this maybe i can get it better also do not like the keelson notch this occurs from frame 25 on aft the other ones are ok missing something there. THANKS GUYS WONDERFUL HELP. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS STAY SAFE ALL Don
 
Don,
in the last image, how much is the over-all thickness of that frame?
 
You are getting there Don.
As mentioned, if you are sanding the bevelling the two templates have to be exactly alligned.
Most simple to do this is first to sand down on one side to the outer contours of the frame, the lines of your paper cut. If that is done you can allign the template on the 2nd side of the frame much simpler.
Succes.
 
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Hi Don
Great improvements ,Congratulants, Well Done. If I may I would like to make a couple of suggestions to make things a bit easier. First leave a bit more paper on your framing paper at least 1/8" or 3mm, this will make gluing the paper pattern to your frames just a bit easier. Also I glue the wood, not he paper pattern, found this helped me . Even so I found the paper very flimsy and found that if I clamped 1/2 of my pattern aliened to the frame, folded back the other half and applied the glue to the frame, slowly apply this half and then do the same gluing to the other side. Hope this helps.
By leaving a little extra wood on your frames paper will make it much easier for you so saw out, keep up the great work and above all, Enjoy.
Regards Lawrence
 
Hi all, have not posted in a couple of days, but have been contining sanding to 1.5mm on frames, the weather has not warmed up enough for me to work outside yet, DUST IS IN THE AIR AND EVERYWHERE, progress pictures20200417_031920.jpg20200417_032003.jpg20200417_032120.jpg20200417_032229.jpg
 
Hi Lawrence, sorry for not getting back to you sooner I am trying to do that it would make it a lot easier but due to the lay out of the frames have not got the room consistently to do that besides i am one of the unfortunate ones who can not draw a straight line with a ruler, ( T SQUARE YES LOL ) GOD BLESS AND STAY SAFE Don
 
enHi Maarten, I think i have to do more shaping of the top timbersas i can see that they will be a problem if done when i attach frames to keel, still not happy with the overall consistancy of the frames but am worried about taking to much off, your opion. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Hi Christian, i understand about the flexibility and leading to more problems, but do not understand what you mean about paper in the middle of the frame,,,

I think this is what Christian is talking about leaving the paper in the middle

Cad design - Alfred stern cad designing

on to the building of a blank at this stage i use a super glue product to glue the blank parts together. It is fast and easy to assemble frame parts. you should end up with two blanks strong enough to handle. There is no need to use any measurements or frame pattern. The angle sets the shape.
shipsofscale.com
 
Yes, that is exactly, what I want say. Glue the frame with the paper in the middle on your prepared frame. If the glue has dryed cou can cut the paper in the middle with an exacto blade
 
Don,

as far as I understood you, you cut the frame template completely out the paper (on the inside and outside) out before glueing the template to the timber. What I mean:
Cut the paper template only on the outside of the frame out, than glue the template on the prepared timber. If the glue has dryed, cut the paper on the inside away.
 
SORRY CRISTIAN, but need a little mor help here mind just not getting it all, how much should i leave on inside edge and what do i accomplish by doing this will sure try it out, sorry about the continuing questions and am i on the right track now before i continue i am doing about 2 a day and sometimes more not rushing it. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE. Don
 
OK will go over it again, can i use the paper pattern in the way that i am doing the frames or does this apply to doing BLANKS only, is not the way i am doing it FOR LACK OF A BETTER TERM A SEMI HAHN BLANK at least on the first layer, WHAT I AM SAYING (I THINK) is that cutting the paper pattern close on the out side and thick on the inside then cutting the inside to shape, NEED TO DIGEST THIS ONE A LITTLE BIT. Don
 
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