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Yeah, from what I’ve read, the Pinta and Nina were even smaller than the Santa Maria
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Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory 1805
- Thread starter AlanOES
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- artesania latina victory
Thank you so much for these helpful pictures and instructions Tony. I am building this model (also only my second ship build) and ths deck has really challenged me. I have found yourbuild log very helpful!
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Glad it’s helping you TonyM, but my name is Alan
Sorry! I realised that after I had sent the message.Glad it’s helping you TonyM, but my name is Alan
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No problem, coincidentally TonyJ is another Australian from Brisbane I think, he is following my build and has his own build log on this site
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Instructions video #22 completed
Finally
After many hours and many copper plates, north of 2,300 actually, finally finished the copper plates. When I started on the starboard side I wanted to achieve as close a mirror image as possible to the port side, but because of the hull cut out, I didn’t have the reference points along the waterline around midships that I used to start the plates on the port side. So I identified and highlighted the 10th row down from the waterline on the port side, this is the last row that goes the whole length of the hull before the change of direction and cut ins start. I then used a cloth measuring tape to measure down from the keel at about 25mm intervals, then replicated these measurements on the starboard side, that enabled me to mark a line in a similar position and used that line to install row 10 on the starboard side. From there I could install copper plates back up the the waterline and measure reference points along the lines to mark where the cut ins start and plate down towards the keel. Didn’t achieve a a perfect mirror image, but it’s close enough.
Towards the stern end of the hull cut out is a sort of dip in the line that had always looked ok when just painted, but when I started having to cut the copper plates around the sort of S bend it created, it started to look ragged and untidy, so I levelled it across so I only had one curve at each end of the cut out to deal with. Finally, on my own initiative, I decided to check the wiring to make sure no damage had occurred during the copper plating and all the previous sanding and planking works.
I will now have a little break before starting video 23 which will be the construction and rigging of 30 32ponder guns for the lower gun deck
, so look out for my next post in about a year’s time 
Regards
Alan
Finally
After many hours and many copper plates, north of 2,300 actually, finally finished the copper plates. When I started on the starboard side I wanted to achieve as close a mirror image as possible to the port side, but because of the hull cut out, I didn’t have the reference points along the waterline around midships that I used to start the plates on the port side. So I identified and highlighted the 10th row down from the waterline on the port side, this is the last row that goes the whole length of the hull before the change of direction and cut ins start. I then used a cloth measuring tape to measure down from the keel at about 25mm intervals, then replicated these measurements on the starboard side, that enabled me to mark a line in a similar position and used that line to install row 10 on the starboard side. From there I could install copper plates back up the the waterline and measure reference points along the lines to mark where the cut ins start and plate down towards the keel. Didn’t achieve a a perfect mirror image, but it’s close enough.
Towards the stern end of the hull cut out is a sort of dip in the line that had always looked ok when just painted, but when I started having to cut the copper plates around the sort of S bend it created, it started to look ragged and untidy, so I levelled it across so I only had one curve at each end of the cut out to deal with. Finally, on my own initiative, I decided to check the wiring to make sure no damage had occurred during the copper plating and all the previous sanding and planking works.
I will now have a little break before starting video 23 which will be the construction and rigging of 30 32ponder guns for the lower gun deck
, so look out for my next post in about a year’s time Regards
Alan
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Hey Alan,
Great shots and really fantastic realisation. The copper plates are amazing. I can imagine that you need a break. But I forbid you to take a year off!!! Who am I supposed to learn from and copy how great the Victory is built?
Don't do that to me ...
But seriously, I think it's great to see your progress and also how you're approaching building the Victory. Also, I'm glad your Victory survived the spins and standing on its head well. I hope no parts fell out? I'm glad the wiring held up well too. Otherwise it would certainly have been difficult to check the wiring to see where the fault might lie.
I can only say that I was very pleased to finally hear from you again and I'm looking forward to seeing what happens next.
Best regards
Günther
Great shots and really fantastic realisation. The copper plates are amazing. I can imagine that you need a break. But I forbid you to take a year off!!! Who am I supposed to learn from and copy how great the Victory is built?
Don't do that to me ...But seriously, I think it's great to see your progress and also how you're approaching building the Victory. Also, I'm glad your Victory survived the spins and standing on its head well. I hope no parts fell out? I'm glad the wiring held up well too. Otherwise it would certainly have been difficult to check the wiring to see where the fault might lie.
I can only say that I was very pleased to finally hear from you again and I'm looking forward to seeing what happens next.
Best regards
Günther
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Thank you Günther for your comments and continued support of my build logHey Alan,
Great shots and really fantastic realisation. The copper plates are amazing. I can imagine that you need a break. But I forbid you to take a year off!!! Who am I supposed to learn from and copy how great the Victory is built?
But seriously, I think it's great to see your progress and also how you're approaching building the Victory. Also, I'm glad your Victory survived the spins and standing on its head well. I hope no parts fell out? I'm glad the wiring held up well too. Otherwise it would certainly have been difficult to check the wiring to see where the fault might lie.
I can only say that I was very pleased to finally hear from you again and I'm looking forward to seeing what happens next.
Best regards
Günther
Actually, the little brass eyelet on the pump handle came adrift during one of the electric sanding sessions but that has now been restored to its rightful place
I think you knew I was joking when I said next post in a year, but it will be a while , those guns look very fiddly and time consuming but I’ll do my best to get done asap. I’ve already watched through the video again and noted down all the parts required, so although I said I was having few days off I’ve actually started again
, but I won’t physically start anything until Monday at leastRegards
Alan
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Instructions video #23 part 1
30 cannon complete
Blocks and tackles to follow
Like most modellers I would think, when confronted with multiple repetitive tasks, I like to work in what I call conveyer belt mode.
In this case, I removed, sanded/ prepared every component required for all 30 cannons before even thinking about assembly. I then did each construction step 30 times over until I have 30 completed units.
I changed the construction video instructions a few times to suit how I wanted to work, I used a rat tail file in a drill to sand down the carriage wheels, drilled the 0.5mm hole in the rear of the carriage before painting, and cut the brass rods to size before blackening, this took away the risk of scratching the paint if I was cutting them in situ as shown, and meant I didn’t have to touch in the ends with black paint. Also, I didn’t like the look of the wire holding the wheels so I cut it as short as I could and wrapped it around the axle.
Finally, I think, I put a spot of black paint into the holes in the trunnion caps. I have also added my own enhancement of the gun carriages by fitting the two eyebolts at the rear top of the carriage. Considering the amount of detail AL have put into these carriages, I’m surprised these were not included in the kit. I know they are not used, in fact I think I’ve only ever seen one photograph of them in use with the gun tackle, but they are still a prominent feature on the real carriages
Anyway, that’s about it, now on to the blocks and tackles , after a day off
30 cannon complete
Blocks and tackles to follow
Like most modellers I would think, when confronted with multiple repetitive tasks, I like to work in what I call conveyer belt mode.
In this case, I removed, sanded/ prepared every component required for all 30 cannons before even thinking about assembly. I then did each construction step 30 times over until I have 30 completed units.
I changed the construction video instructions a few times to suit how I wanted to work, I used a rat tail file in a drill to sand down the carriage wheels, drilled the 0.5mm hole in the rear of the carriage before painting, and cut the brass rods to size before blackening, this took away the risk of scratching the paint if I was cutting them in situ as shown, and meant I didn’t have to touch in the ends with black paint. Also, I didn’t like the look of the wire holding the wheels so I cut it as short as I could and wrapped it around the axle.
Finally, I think, I put a spot of black paint into the holes in the trunnion caps. I have also added my own enhancement of the gun carriages by fitting the two eyebolts at the rear top of the carriage. Considering the amount of detail AL have put into these carriages, I’m surprised these were not included in the kit. I know they are not used, in fact I think I’ve only ever seen one photograph of them in use with the gun tackle, but they are still a prominent feature on the real carriages
Anyway, that’s about it, now on to the blocks and tackles , after a day off
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