Bomb Ketch Salamandre 1:48

[BradNSW]

I secure this to the bed of the milling table using a double layer of double-sided tape (of course you can use hardware if the slots line up).

As long as I'm spending your money buy a small digital angle finder and impress yourself with your new accurate milling.

Already have the digital angle scale...love it! Any more suggestions on spending my money, let me know

Brad take it from my experience and a pile of rejected hawse timbers - normal double sided tape wont hold with more powerful mill like a sherline or taig. I use this one with success and left behind the frustration.

Thanks, I will give that a try!

Isopropyl alcohol will usually release the tape with the added benefit that it won't raise the grain in the wood. We do it all the time in the furniture industry.

Awesome, I have a bottle of that, so will give it a try.

Again, appreciate the advice from those with much more experience and ideas than I have!

 

[BradNSW]

Love what you're doing here, Brad. Not sure if you have a thickness sander available, but that might also be an alternative to milling.

This is how I made the first Cant frame. It's also when I decided to get the Sherline Mill. It worked but I think the mill is easier to setup and repeat parts.

Thanks!

 

[BradNSW]

Trash bin swallowed my first set of Cant frames!

Seems this is not an uncommon occurrence!

I milled the bottom on some (or all of them) too narrow. The remaining space was too wide for one Cant frame to fill.

I hope I understand the drawings and angles better so my second attempt will be successful!



The new adjustable angle milling table will help immensely too!!

 

[GrantTyler]

Trash bin swallowed my first set of Cant frames!

Seems this is not an uncommon occurrence!

Good morning Brad. Eish and a true story. I think cant frames even with kit models have redo written all over them. There is a reason why they are called cant frames as we just "cant" get them right . Cheers Grant

 

[dockattner]

Trash bin swallowed my first set of Cant frames

So everything is proceeding normally then...

 

[BradNSW]

Cant Frame trials and tribulations.

Long post that may help someone attempting the complex curves on this particular bow.

Some obvious things, after 22 days studying all the intricate drawings for these complex 3D curves:

1. The six Cant Frames have no spacers, so each angle has to be milled perfectly to interface with the next (see photos from a builds' I often reference, by Alexandru Gurau and Jimmy on this forum).



2. The angles for milling the Cant frames (Red Arrow in frame 4 below) need to be measured and milled with extreme accuracy. After measuring: ENSURE THE SUM OF THE ANGELS = 90 degrees! Seems obvious now…Duh!?!? On my first attempt the angels added up to 83 degrees! This left me with a gap that could not be filled.



2. Use the outside of the lines (blue arrow on frame 5 above) to measure the thickness of each Cant frame, then add 2-3 hundredths of an inch to each frame “for insurance”. Hindsight on the first attempt I measured to the middle of each line.

These two cumulative errors resulted in my last Cant frame being too narrow to fill the space in the picture below.



THE SUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT:

1. All six angles added up to 90 degrees.

2. I added 3/100 of an inch to the measured thickness of each frame.

3. On initial test fits, things were too tight. After sanding each frame fit tightly. The inspector showed and gave a thumbs up BUT he berated LTJG Newbie for taking 20 days to do 6 frames.


4. A good set of Cabinet scrapers are you friend as you try to fair these complex curves.



5. An accurate tilting table for you mill is also you friend! I attached a wood “working base”, using the tape CBL recommended.



6. Finally, two perspectives of the unusual bow curves. It actually bends backwards, making for some very complex angels. Sanding, scraping and fairing this area will take some time and patience!!

 

[CLB]

Nice work Brad - I think it took me the better part of 1 month to get mine right - so you beat me by 10 days !

 

[dockattner]

Way to go, Brad! A hard battle well fought!

 

[CLB]

And believe me this battle is even worse with the Hawse frames that have spacers in between them - I lost that war on my aborted Le Gros Ventre build

 

[BradNSW]

4-days (12-14 hour) fairing the interior port bow section.

The below photo shows the significant and complex curvature. It also shows the multiple curved cabinet scrapers, and flexible home-made sanding sticks that were critical in fairing them. Now to make the Starboard side a mirrored duplicate!!


This next two photos show the significant tumblehome, typical of French construction of this time period. This widens the hull at the waterline. This would make the mortars more stable, during the long-range sieges where they were employed.


In the evenings the shipyard has been producing bolts that will be used to secure the keelson over the frames.

The process:
1. 20-gauge brass wire is cut into short lengths with fingernail clippers.
2. The wire is placed in a small drill bit vice, mounted in an electric drill. The base is narrowed (like a nail) with a file, then a small burnishing tool rounds and polishes the imitation bolt head.
3. Final photo shows three test bolts. They are set slightly proud of the surface, as they will be done on the keelson.


Progress, however slow, is still progress, right?

 

[OlivierF]

As my grand nephew would say, “damn, you da bomb!” Well done, Brad…

 

[CLB]

Nice work Brad !!!!

 

[dockattner]

Terrific, Brad! It's hard to remain patient during this processing of the inner hull and it seems you have managed quite nicely.

As I have now established a reputation for spending your money... The cup bur you showed works for a limited production, but you might have noticed it gets clogged up easily. If you ever need to increase your output and lower your frustration Busch offers another version that ejects the shavings very nicely:

Busch® Cup Bur Sets - Twincut Fig. 411T - 008-020, Set of 12 | Gesswein

Various Busch Bur Round Sets available for your jewelry making needs. All burs are mounted on 3/32" shanks and made of tungsten vanadium steel.

www.gesswein.com

 

[BradNSW]

As I have now established a reputation for spending your money... The cup bur you showed works for a limited production, but you might have noticed it gets clogged up easily. If you ever need to increase your output and lower your frustration Busch offers another version that ejects the shavings very nicely:

Busch® Cup Bur Sets - Twincut Fig. 411T - 008-020, Set of 12 | Gesswein

Various Busch Bur Round Sets available for your jewelry making needs. All burs are mounted on 3/32" shanks and made of tungsten vanadium steel.

www.gesswein.com

Paul,

Still trying to spend "my money"...sure you're a dental profession and not in Government?

I didn't order the Busch cup burrs, as the set I have are working fine BUT:

When I went to your link, it also showed Gesswein® Lube-Stik

So of course I had to buy some. Should prolong the life of the burrs, even though the soft brass doesn't seem to dull them too much.

Nice work Brad !!!!

As my grand nephew would say, “damn, you da bomb!” Well done, Brad…

Thanks for the positive feedback.

 

[Kortes]

Hello dear Brad, i hope you find this info useful. Once an outstanding Maitre Aleksand Dobrenko shsred his method of making nails with mushroomlike head from the Brass wire by knurling. The sharpened wird is cut by rolling it with a strong knife on a dense rubber base, such as a hockey puck. I used this method when working on my models, it works really well.
My very best regards, Aleksadr

 

[BradNSW]

Aleksadr,

I like this very much, because it should be faster.

I will be giving it a try and compare the head to the ones with the cup burnishing tool.

Thank you for this tip!