It's not like I haven't been there...
Cutting out a frame on the SP
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I LOVE grandkid sleepovers!
Cutting out a frame on the SP
:I LOVE grandkid sleepovers!
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Bomb Ketch Salamandre 1:48
I had to catch up ‘some posts’, Brad. It’s hard to see that you found the cracks on you build. Take your time to find your solution and weigh the options.
Regards, Peter
Regards, Peter
Brad, if it were me I would break out the iso alcohol and carefully take it apart the assembly and re do it. Have courage, it will look even better than before.
By trying to compensate for errors made now could compound and bite you even bigger down the line.
By trying to compensate for errors made now could compound and bite you even bigger down the line.
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Obstacle course worked well...asleep before their lulliby tape was over!We had a great-grandson sleepover Friday. Love it, but boy, are we getting old. Great idea on the obstacle course - get 'em tired quickly.
Also wondering if you are quietly calling for help as some of your flags are upside down?
What an eye for detail! 3 flags that could be hung upside down and I got them all wrong! This will be corrected ASAP! In spite of this, Navy did win in a very exciting game.
Four hours: the stern transoms and skewed stern frame are GONE!
I'm feeling better!!!
I cut through the transom pieces and brushed each joint with water, until I felt them loosen. Then a few seconds with the heat gun and they slipped apart. See photos below:
Here are the shots I was trying to get when I discovered the frame I somehow skewed.
Now she sits in a new building jig, with the offending frame dry-fit.
Time to relax and watch Sunday Football games.
Reconstruction starts tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for encouraging me to tear apart the stern and "Get it Right"!! Not as hard as I anticipated.
I'm feeling better!!!
I cut through the transom pieces and brushed each joint with water, until I felt them loosen. Then a few seconds with the heat gun and they slipped apart. See photos below:
Here are the shots I was trying to get when I discovered the frame I somehow skewed.
Now she sits in a new building jig, with the offending frame dry-fit.
Time to relax and watch Sunday Football games.
Reconstruction starts tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for encouraging me to tear apart the stern and "Get it Right"!! Not as hard as I anticipated.
Sometimes the hardest thing is doing what you know has to be done (but you just don't want to do it). I've looked at mistakes for days before pulling the trigger on a correction that only takes a relatively short time to complete. Happy for you!
Good morning Brad. Definitely worth the redo. I’m so used to redo’s on my current ship it has become the expected
. Cheers Grant4-hour to Demolition the stern. 4-days to Rebuild it AND construct two types of cradles.
The cradles may be interesting to new modelers, looking for ways to secure their hulls during construction.
The first cradle is simple. Cutout two profiles (frames 10 and 30 in this case). It allows the hull to be set down and picked up easily.
The second is made to hold the hull perfectly level and perpendicular. To build it, I bought 4 plastic rafter squares for $7 each at Home Depot. Aluminum were $15 each.
I then made some blue shavings with the mill! (I'll be finding blue shavings in the workshop for the next month)
!
Combined with two strips of aluminum channel and Presto: an easy to secure jig for accurate and repeatable measurements. A half turn on the screws and they slide easily, releasing the model.
Pictures of the repaired transom frames, with the ship in the new jig to ensure everything is square and level. Amazon also delivered a 1/16" end mill. This small diameter made squaring the grooves for the counter timbers much easier.
Next, I'll review a bunch of build logs and try to figure out what the next step should be. I feel I need some more longitudinal support before sanding and fairing the exterior. My thoughts:
1. Add the deck clamps and spacers, as shown on Oliviers Rochefort. I forgot to put in the spacers as I installed each frame
.
2. Add a top longitudinal strip, like Chris Bren did on his Renommee.
Thanks for your continued interest as I work through the build (rebuild) sequence!!
The cradles may be interesting to new modelers, looking for ways to secure their hulls during construction.
The first cradle is simple. Cutout two profiles (frames 10 and 30 in this case). It allows the hull to be set down and picked up easily.
The second is made to hold the hull perfectly level and perpendicular. To build it, I bought 4 plastic rafter squares for $7 each at Home Depot. Aluminum were $15 each.
I then made some blue shavings with the mill! (I'll be finding blue shavings in the workshop for the next month)
!Combined with two strips of aluminum channel and Presto: an easy to secure jig for accurate and repeatable measurements. A half turn on the screws and they slide easily, releasing the model.
Pictures of the repaired transom frames, with the ship in the new jig to ensure everything is square and level. Amazon also delivered a 1/16" end mill. This small diameter made squaring the grooves for the counter timbers much easier.
Next, I'll review a bunch of build logs and try to figure out what the next step should be. I feel I need some more longitudinal support before sanding and fairing the exterior. My thoughts:
1. Add the deck clamps and spacers, as shown on Oliviers Rochefort. I forgot to put in the spacers as I installed each frame
. 2. Add a top longitudinal strip, like Chris Bren did on his Renommee.
Thanks for your continued interest as I work through the build (rebuild) sequence!!
Hi Brad,
I would for sure add more bracing before exterior sanding. I am worried with the varied weather conditions of winter and heating of a warp. I have not removed my ship from the build board but am instead adding the interior planking of the hold to give it even more rigidity before removing it from the jig.
Add the strips long the top of the frames as I have done and also the spacers between the frames or "keys" as they are called are a great ideas. La Renommee according to Boudriot did not have keys but there is some debate as it was current practice for the times and some modelers have added them.
Installing the deck clamps is also a great idea.
Keep up the good work !
I would for sure add more bracing before exterior sanding. I am worried with the varied weather conditions of winter and heating of a warp. I have not removed my ship from the build board but am instead adding the interior planking of the hold to give it even more rigidity before removing it from the jig.
Add the strips long the top of the frames as I have done and also the spacers between the frames or "keys" as they are called are a great ideas. La Renommee according to Boudriot did not have keys but there is some debate as it was current practice for the times and some modelers have added them.
Installing the deck clamps is also a great idea.
Keep up the good work !
Hi Brad, you've made great progress. As I've read, you've solved all the difficulties very well. I can only agree with Chris: leave your hull in the jig as long as possible. If possible, screw the keel to the bottom plate. I think Chris had a slight warping of about 1mm there. I had the same issue with my La Palme; I screwed the Le Rochefort keel in place and there was zero warping.
Brad, great idea using the rafter squares! Magic Mike4-hour to Demolition the stern. 4-days to Rebuild it AND construct two types of cradles.
The cradles may be interesting to new modelers, looking for ways to secure their hulls during construction.
The first cradle is simple. Cutout two profiles (frames 10 and 30 in this case). It allows the hull to be set down and picked up easily.
View attachment 564692
The second is made to hold the hull perfectly level and perpendicular. To build it, I bought 4 plastic rafter squares for $7 each at Home Depot. Aluminum were $15 each.
View attachment 564695
I then made some blue shavings with the mill! (I'll be finding blue shavings in the workshop for the next month)
View attachment 564689
Combined with two strips of aluminum channel and Presto: an easy to secure jig for accurate and repeatable measurements. A half turn on the screws and they slide easily, releasing the model.
View attachment 564691
Pictures of the repaired transom frames, with the ship in the new jig to ensure everything is square and level. Amazon also delivered a 1/16" end mill. This small diameter made squaring the grooves for the counter timbers much easier.
View attachment 564693View attachment 564694
Next, I'll review a bunch of build logs and try to figure out what the next step should be. I feel I need some more longitudinal support before sanding and fairing the exterior. My thoughts:
1. Add the deck clamps and spacers, as shown on Oliviers Rochefort. I forgot to put in the spacers as I installed each frame
View attachment 564696
2. Add a top longitudinal strip, like Chris Bren did on his Renommee.
View attachment 564697
Thanks for your continued interest as I work through the build (rebuild) sequence!!
View attachment 564690
Chris/Tobias, I too am worried about warping.
The construction jig I made has solid 1/4" aluminum rails screwed into the wood, to prevent warping L/R along the keel.
I also place heavy weights along the keel to prevent any hogging of the keel. I am also worried about twisting, higher up, so that's why I want to get the longitudinal beams in as soon as I can...also to give support for sanding the exterior.
I hope these precautions will prevent any warping.
Cheap but effective.
Thanks all for the feedback and continued interest/advice. It is much appreciated!!